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Crossbow Trad Climb on Castle Rock Southeast Face

Big Bear Lake, California United States
wide crack
stem box
single pitch
easy trad
black tower
desert granite
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crossbow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crossbow presents a straightforward trad climb on Castle Rock’s Southeast Face, featuring an easy wide crack start and a dynamic stem/lieback section leading to a comfortable belay at the Black Tower. Ideal for trad climbers looking for accessible technical moves in a stunning mountain setting."

Crossbow Trad Climb on Castle Rock Southeast Face

Crossbow on Castle Rock’s Southeast Face offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb, perfect for those seeking a slice of classic California granite with a modest challenge. Starting with a confident lieback on an easy, wide crack, the initial moves invite climbers to engage their hands and feet with minimal gear requirements, as this section needs only an optional 6-inch piece for protection. From here, the route transitions smoothly onto a broad face where the rock’s texture invites steady movement and careful balance.

Soon, the route shifts character as you reach a hand-to-fist crack hugging the right side of a distinctive stembox feature. This section asks for a versatile approach—stem, jam, lieback, and delicate face climbing—to work your way up toward the belay station. The stembox lends a dynamic quality to the climb, challenging climbers to use both body positioning and crack technique in equal measure, keeping the ascent engaging without overwhelming.

At the top, you arrive at the belay station atop the Black Tower, sharing anchors with the adjacent Black Tower Crack route. The protection throughout is composed primarily of gear placements up to 4 inches, with two fixed bolts securing the anchor, making your descent straightforward and safe via rappel. The granite here feels solid, but typical desert conditions mean the rock can be dusty—bring a brush and be ready to clean holds where necessary.

Located in the Big Bear Lake Area within the San Bernardino Mountains, this climb sits in a rugged landscape defined by steep forested slopes and clear mountain air. The approach to Castle Rock is manageable for most climbers, with well-marked trails and a moderate hike through shaded woodland. Early mornings provide the best conditions, with cool temperatures and less crowded access.

Crossbow is a compact, accessible climb that offers just enough technical interest to satisfy beginners and intermediate trad climbers alike, with a gentle exposure that keeps adrenaline in check but excitement alive. Be sure to pack a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams, and plan your ascent when the rock is dry and the weather stable to get the most from this classic route. The climb’s location within a popular climbing zone also means nearby amenities and local beta are readily available, making it a practical choice for a day trip or a weekend outing.

Ultimately, Crossbow delivers a concise, enjoyable experience that blends the physical rhythm of crack and face climbing with the satisfaction of a well-protected trad ascent amid inviting mountain scenery.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose debris and dust, especially on the face section before the stem box. The gear placements are generally solid, but less experienced climbers should double-check placements in the wider crack. Rappelling from the shared two-bolt anchor is straightforward, but ensure rappel gear is properly doubled and tested before descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach via maintained trails through forested terrain, allow 30-45 minutes from trailhead.

Start early to avoid afternoon heat; southeast face gains sun mid-morning.

Rock can be dusty—carry a small brush to clean holds before the crux section.

Standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams works best; double sets not necessary.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Crossbow offers a moderate challenge with a rating that feels true to its moves. The lieback start on the wider crack is straightforward with minimal strenuous holds, while the stem box section adds a slight crux that demands balanced footwork and hand jams. Overall, this climb is approachable for intermediate climbers and beginners ready to step up from 5.6-5.7 routes. Compared to nearby routes on Castle Rock, it feels less pumpy but still requires technical finesse.

Gear Requirements

Bring gear up to 4 inches including cams suited for wide cracks; a single 6-inch piece can be useful on the initial wide crack. Anchor is equipped with two bolts shared with Black Tower Crack for rappel.

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Tags

wide crack
stem box
single pitch
easy trad
black tower
desert granite