HomeClimbingCrooked Dick Spire

Crooked Dick Spire: A Focused Sport Climb in California's High Desert

Joshua Tree, California USA
technical moves
crux after second bolt
desert sun
short sport climb
single pitch
Length: 35 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crooked Dick Spire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Short yet demanding, Crooked Dick Spire offers a tight 35-foot sport route where technical precision meets desert intensity. Perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their crux moves under the sun-dappled gaze of California’s High Desert."

Crooked Dick Spire: A Focused Sport Climb in California's High Desert

Crooked Dick Spire, known informally as The Finger, stands boldly in the heart of the High Desert’s Box Canyon East—a rugged and raw climbing destination where every move demands attention. This compact, single-pitch sport climb measures just 35 feet, but don’t let its size fool you; the route packs technical challenges framed by glaring desert sun and sparse shade. Begin your ascent by moving steadily along the bolts, quickly finding flow before the true test emerges shortly after the second bolt. Here, the rock demands a sharper edge of finesse as you navigate a tricky crux that pushes reach and body position to their limits. The ledge beneath the third bolt offers a brief breathing point, though the transition from this hold requires creative motion—deviating momentarily from the line of bolts, you must reconnect with the protection with confident reach. This climb rewards climbers who approach with a mix of pragmatism and boldness, blending technical precision with a willingness to move dynamically.

The rock itself is firm and sharp, etched with small yet reliable holds that respond best to steady fingers and mindful foot placements. Though short in height, the route’s exposure to sun and wind on the spire’s eastern face means hydration and timing are essential. Aim for early morning or late afternoon laps to avoid the desert’s harshest heat, and pack lightweight gear tailored for sport climbs with four well-spaced bolts and solid chain anchors at the top.

Getting to Crooked Dick Spire is straightforward for High Desert veterans: approach via the New Jack City area, following established trails that wind through scrub brush and scattered boulders, arriving at the base well in under an hour from trailhead parking. The approach’s terrain is a blend of loose gravel and rocky outcrops, demanding steady footing and sturdy shoes. Once atop, the panoramic views of the sprawling desert stretch outward, grounding your climb in a broader sense of place.

Local climbers appreciate Crooked Dick Spire for its focused technical moves packaged in accessible height—a perfect outlet for refining sport climbing skills in a setting that carries the desert's stark beauty and quiet challenges. Whether you're dialing in your crux technique or savoring the crisp desert air with quick laps, this route delivers on both excitement and approachability.

In preparation, climbers should carry essentials like extra water, a helmet to guard against loose rock, and sun protection. Be mindful of the route’s brief rock variability near the third bolt—while holds are generally sound, the nuanced movement here demands respect. Crooked Dick Spire invites climbers ready to test their precision and reach in a raw desert environment, offering a memorable climb crowned with expansive views and a distinctly High Desert character.

Climber Safety

The transition from the ledge to the third bolt involves a slight move off the bolt line—stay deliberate here to avoid awkward body positioning or clipping struggles. Loose rock is rare but stay alert for any desert debris, especially in windy conditions.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length35 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late to avoid High Desert midday heat.

Bring extra water and sun protection—shade is minimal.

Wear shoes with solid edge support for small footholds.

Approach trail can be loose—use trekking poles if needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, this climb feels true to grade with a distinct crux that tests reach and balance more than sustained difficulty. Its short length keeps endurance demands low, making it a great warm-up or technique sharpener compared to longer sport routes in the region.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts protect this short, sharp route, ending with chain anchors for secure top-outs. The spacing demands careful clipping and a confident reach near the crux after the second bolt.

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Tags

technical moves
crux after second bolt
desert sun
short sport climb
single pitch