HomeClimbingCrim the Crimp

Crim the Crimp: A Classic 5.9 Trad Test in St. Mary's Lake

Idaho Springs, Colorado United States
finger crack
roof crux
east facing
single pitch
pocketed sandstone
Length: 20 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crim the Crimp
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact 5.9 trad route climbing a sharp roof and delicate crimps on a smooth sandstone face. Crim the Crimp demands finger strength and precision, with a quiet forested approach and sweeping valley views just outside Idaho Springs."

Crim the Crimp: A Classic 5.9 Trad Test in St. Mary's Lake

Crim the Crimp challenges climbers to engage with a short but intense stretch of sandstone just above the shimmering waters of St. Mary’s Lake near Idaho Springs, Colorado. The route ascends 20 feet from the middle section of a broad cliff face, demanding precise fingerwork as you negotiate a small roof that guards the crux. Once past this overhang, the rock opens to a smooth, vertical face scattered with sharp crimps that test your grip and finesse. The climb concludes on a modest ledge, where you can catch your breath before scrambling another 10 feet to reach the top of the formation.

Though only a single pitch, this route rewards focus and preparation. The rock is strikingly clean and the crimp holds small, so precise hand placement and body positioning are essential for success. The setting is quiet and surrounded by pine and fir trees that frame clear views of the valley below. The cliff faces east, offering morning sun to warm the rock and cool shade later in the day. This makes spring and early fall ideal seasons, when temperatures are comfortable and the stone feels best.

Protection is straightforward but requires mindfulness: smaller cams and a rack suited for variable crack sizes will work well here. The route’s protection points are solid, but the roof section tests placements—climbers should ensure gear is seated firmly before committing to moves above.

Approach is manageable, crossing a gently inclined forest path spreading from a small parking area just off Highway 103. The hike takes roughly 15 minutes, passing through thick underbrush with sporadic wildflowers and the crisp scent of pine needles.

Whether you’re refining your 5.9 trad technique or seeking a focused challenge close to town, Crim the Crimp offers a condensed but rewarding climbing experience. It pairs hands-on finesse with the quiet natural charm of a less crowded crag, perfect for a half-day adventure. Bring sturdy shoes with sensitive edging, plenty of chalk to combat the slick rock face, and hydrate well—Colorado’s mountain air can sneakily dry you out.

Climber Safety

Although the protection bolts and placements are trustworthy, the roof section demands careful gear placement under tension. Sloppy placements here can lead to longer falls. The ledge is spacious but stay alert on the scramble to avoid loose rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length20 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch cooler morning light and avoid afternoon heat on the east-facing wall.

Use sticky rubber shoes with good edging to maximize footing on small edges.

Check all gear placements above the roof carefully before committing to moves.

Allow extra time for the short scramble to reach the summit after the belay ledge.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated a 5.9, Crim the Crimp leans toward a sustained climb with a sharp finger-strength crux at the roof. It’s not an easy 5.9, as the crimped holds require steady confidence and clean footwork. Compared to nearby moderate routes, it feels a touch stiffer, making it excellent training for climbers edging into solid black diamond terrain.

Gear Requirements

Bring a light trad rack focusing on small to medium cams for secure placements throughout the roof and face. Chalk is essential to maintain grip on the smooth sandstone holds.

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Tags

finger crack
roof crux
east facing
single pitch
pocketed sandstone