Cricket at Jellystone Southwest Face

Twentynine Palms, California United States
crack climbing
bolt crux
single pitch
desert climbing
beginner trad
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cricket
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cricket invites climbers to experience a compact and engaging trad climb on the Southwest Face of Jellystone in Joshua Tree. Its bolt-protected crux and solid crack climbing make it an excellent route for trad novices seeking a quick, rewarding challenge amid stunning desert scenery."

Cricket at Jellystone Southwest Face

Cricket is a compact yet rewarding trad route located on the Southwest Face of Jellystone within Joshua Tree National Park's Lost Horse Area. At just 50 feet, this single-pitch climb offers an accessible entry into the park’s granite playground, balancing straightforward movement with a distinctive climbing crux that centers around a well-placed bolt near the start. The route begins from a prominent boulder, immediately engaging the climber with a technical move off the bolt before settling into a crack system that invites judicious gear placements. The granite here is solid, featuring clean fractures that make pro placements satisfying and reliable, especially for those outfitted with a standard rack. Anchors require a bit of planning, as protection for the top anchors must be set with traditional gear, underscoring the importance of a versatile rack.

As you ascend, the rock’s raw texture brushes against your hands while the high desert sun casts long shadows, shifting the warmth on your skin and the air’s dry scent of creosote and juniper. This route rewards a blend of physical focus and environmental awareness, offering quiet moments to listen to wind teasing desert foliage and the occasional call of distant birds. Unlike longer climbs that test endurance, Cricket’s brief length allows for repeated attempts or easy integration into a day of exploring nearby areas.

For climbers visiting Joshua Tree, Cricket provides a practical introduction to the park’s classic crack climbing style without demanding extensive route-finding or heavy hauling. Its moderate 5.8 rating feels approachable but still presents a challenge at the start, ensuring engagement and learning opportunities for both newcomers and intermediate climbers. Proximity to the Lost Horse area means a scenic approach through open desert terrain, with a short, manageable hike that can be tackled in about 15 minutes from the nearest trailhead. The Southwest Face’s orientation brings morning sun and afternoon shade, making early starts ideal to avoid midday heat during warmer months.

In preparing for Cricket, climbers should bring a standard trad rack including cams sized for finger to hand cracks, as well as some slings and runners for anchor building. Quality footwear with good grip is essential, and layered clothing will help adjust to temperature swings common in high desert settings. Water is crucial — the exposed approach and summit areas offer little natural shade or water sources, so pack accordingly. Weather can shift quickly; always check conditions before heading out.

This route’s charm lies in its simplicity combined with thoughtful protection and a memorable bolt crux that pushes technique. It’s an ideal step into the dynamic climbing environment of Joshua Tree, where rock, sun, and wind challenge and reward in equal measure. Whether you’re aiming for a smooth send or working the moves, Cricket offers a concise taste of the park’s climbing spirit with solid logistical footing.

Climber Safety

Protection for the anchor requires solid traditional placements on potentially less obvious pro, so assess the gear carefully before committing. Additionally, the boulder start can be slick if damp or sandy, so ensure secure footing and attentive movement off the ground.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the southwest-facing wall.

Carry plenty of water for the exposed approach through desert terrain.

Wear sticky rubber shoes for secure footing on the granite’s textured surface.

Double-check gear placements near the anchor to ensure solid anchors on less obvious pro.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Cricket holds a straightforward but solid challenge centered around a single bolt-protected crux. The grade feels fair for the moves involved, combining technical finesse off the bolt with classic crack climbing. It’s a good step up for those familiar with easier trad climbs, with lower-range difficulty compared to other Lost Horse classics but enough substance to maintain interest.

Gear Requirements

This route starts directly below a single bolt that anchors the crux move before shifting into a clean crack system. Bring a standard trad rack with cams sized for finger to hand cracks, plus slings for building reliable anchors since protection beyond the bolt is all traditional.

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Tags

crack climbing
bolt crux
single pitch
desert climbing
beginner trad