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Crest of the Far East: A Classic Trad-Alpine Climb in Tahquitz

Irvine, California United States
long pitch
slab climbing
overlaps
dihedral cracks
pine tree anchors
alpine exposure
Length: 730 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Crest of the Far East
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A solid four-pitch climb combining moderate difficulty and classic alpine exposure in the heart of Tahquitz. This line challenges you with thoughtful gear placements and engaging moves framed by sunlit slabs and corner cracks."

Crest of the Far East: A Classic Trad-Alpine Climb in Tahquitz

Crest of the Far East offers a deeply rewarding alpine climbing experience on solid granite, situated within the rugged expanse of California’s iconic Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks area. Spanning roughly 730 feet over four pitches, this route marries moderate technical challenges with a sharp sense of place high above the surrounding Hinterland Corridor. From the first step, climbers engage with the rock’s varied textures — smooth slabs interrupted by overlapping bulges and corner cracks that demand a steady hand and thoughtful gear placements. The opening pitch sets the tone with its measured moves punctuated by widely spaced gear, requiring patient route-finding and calm composure especially as you negotiate a steep section studded with knobby holds. A well-placed bolt offers an anchor point, but expect the protection to feel somewhat sparse, ensuring this is a pitch that rewards attention and creativity.

Ascending to the second pitch, you’ll pull through an overlap before transitioning onto an airy slab, where delicate balance meets focused effort. A pine tree perched along the route offers a natural landmark and an informal rest spot, while the climbing line weaves right and up, just shy of the tree, ensuring the belay ledge remains stable and safe. Protection remains solid but requires careful placements to prevent unwanted pendulums when following climbers come through. The rock here feels alive: sun-warmed granite edges invite touch, while the surrounding wilderness whispers with the breeze.

The third pitch steps up the difficulty, registering at 5.8. Following cracks to overlaps peppered with bolts, this pitch challenges climbers with a left-facing dihedral capped by a roof. The crux move to bypass the roof is more manageable than it looks but demands precise footwork and steady hands to reach the bolt above. Protection includes gear and bolts, blending traditional safety with fixed hardware, a balance typical of established alpine lines here. The final pitch continues upward and slightly right, leading to a large tree branch just before the crux move. Standing on that branch, climbers confront the key move to reach easier terrain and ultimately the summit.

The descent is straightforward but still commands respect. A rappel station near the top offers a 100-foot drop to a large pine. From here, either a short additional rappel or a careful walk-down downslopes leads back to familiar ground. The route sits in a relatively exposed position; light winds and sun exposure make timing your climb essential. Early morning starts or late afternoon finishes allow climbers to enjoy shade at critical points and avoid the midday heat common in this region. Gear choices prioritize a full single set of cams from .2 to 3 inches, along with extra mid-sized pieces and wires to handle varied crack widths and protect tricky overlaps. Long slings or several runners are helpful for managing rope drag.

Crest of the Far East is a classic experience that demands a blend of alpine savvy and confident traditional lead climbing. It’s a perfect objective for climbers seeking solid moderate-rated pitches in a location known for its history and quiet mountain presence. Preparation, clear navigation, and respect for the rock and descent will yield a memorable day high on Tahquitz’s granite battlements.

Climber Safety

Be mindful that gear placements can be 20 feet apart on the first pitches, increasing the risk of long falls. The descent involves rappels with anchors on trees; double check each station and consider rope length carefully to avoid being short.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches4
Length730 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on exposed slabs.

Use long slings to reduce rope drag on traverses and corners.

Watch for pendulum potential on pitch two's right-facing corner; place protection carefully.

A 70 meter rope is ideal for rappelling and reaching the walk-off slabs.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating reflects moderately sustained climbing with widely spaced protection in several sections. Compared to nearby Tahquitz classics, it leans into harder protection management rather than purely technical cruxes, making it feel approachable for those comfortable in alpine trad settings.

Gear Requirements

Single set of cams from .2 to 3 inches recommended, plus extra .75, 1 and 2-inch pieces, wires, and several runners. Protection is spaced at times, especially early on, so solid gear placement skills are essential.

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Tags

long pitch
slab climbing
overlaps
dihedral cracks
pine tree anchors
alpine exposure