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Cream of Wheat: A Bold Trad Climb at Benton Crags

Bishop, California United States
offwidth
crack climbing
exposed
runout
multi-pitch
Sierra granite
dike feature
California trad
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Cream of Wheat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cream of Wheat delivers a demanding two-pitch trad climb at Benton Crags, blending sustained crack work with a striking dike finish. With a bold 5.8 R crux and exposed anchors, it’s a route that tests both technical skill and mental focus in California’s rugged Eastern Hills."

Cream of Wheat: A Bold Trad Climb at Benton Crags

Cream of Wheat carves a rugged line through the eastern face of Benton Crags, offering climbers a compelling mix of technical crack work and delicate face moves across two pitches. The climb begins with an offwidth rated 5.7, demanding steady hand jams and solid footwork as you ascend into more moderate terrain. This initial section pushes you into a prominent crack angle slightly right of the start, where the rock dynamics transform into a more sustained 5.7 feature that rewards precise movement and thoughtful gear placements.

The first pitch culminates at a belay station precariously perched on a ramp, a position that requires attention and care due to the exposed nature of the stance. From here, Cream of Wheat shifts into an exhilarating second pitch that follows a distinctive dike slicing through the granite. This line moves up and over a bulge, presenting a crux rated at 5.8 with an R rating—meaning protection gaps leave little room for error. The climb demands confident, controlled climbing above sparse gear, with small cams (up to 4 inches) playing a crucial role in protection strategy. The dike itself combines low-key technical climbing with moments of heart-pounding exposure, particularly as you manage the bulge’s roof and the final moves to the belay anchors.

Despite the route’s allure, it’s essential to acknowledge the anchoring challenges here: the bolted anchors at both belays are reported to be subpar and warrant careful inspection before committing. Rappelling from the summit requires a double 70m rope to safely reach the first belay and the ground below; a single 60m rope won’t suffice. Approach with caution—there is no straightforward walk-off, and a slip during the belay traverse could have serious consequences.

Benton Crags itself sits within the Eastern Hills of Sierra Eastside, California, a climbing area prized for its granite quality and variety of traditional climbs. The walls catch generous afternoon sun, making spring and fall ideal seasons when temperatures are mild yet rock conditions remain dry and reliable. Planning your ascent for early morning or late afternoon can provide cooler conditions and reduce the glare on the granite surfaces.

For climbers, securing the right gear and mental focus is vital. Bring a full rack emphasizing smaller cams, be prepared for runout sections, and adopt a measured pacing pace: this is not a climb to rush. Hydrate well before your approach, and wear shoes that balance sensitivity with robust edging capability. The approach trail is moderate but can feel hot under the midday sun, so timing your trek to avoid peak heat is recommended.

Cream of Wheat embodies classic trad climbing’s blend of adventure and challenge—accessible enough for committed intermediate climbers who seek exposure and gear management practice, while offering enough bite to keep more advanced climbers engaged. Familiarize yourself well with the topo, inspect gear meticulously, and prepare for a climb that demands attentiveness as much as skill.

Ultimately, this route grants climbers a rare combination of striking crack climbing and a dynamic dike feature on an exposed eastern Sierra granite face with views that stretch across the rolling foothills below. It’s a test of nerve and technique, balanced by the crisp, clear air and the satisfaction that only solid trad climbing in a respected California climbing zone can provide.

Climber Safety

Anchors are reported less than ideal; always verify their condition before trusting. The traverse down from pitch two is hazardous without proper belay, so avoid any ledge hopping without secure protection. Rappels require full 70m ropes; inadequate rope length risks leaving you stranded on the wall.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed granite.

Inspect the bolted anchors carefully before use; supplement with gear if uncertain.

Be prepared for long runouts, especially on the second pitch’s dike feature.

Do not rely on the described walk-off; plan for rappels with sufficient rope.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels stout given the R protection. The crux on pitch two introduces a serious mental challenge with a runout above small cams under a bulge. It’s a step up from local 5.8 routes that offer more consistent protection, thus requiring both technical competence and composure. Climbers comfortable with moderate offwidth and runouts will find a rewarding but cautious experience here.

Gear Requirements

Full trad rack with cams up to 4 inches needed; small cams crucial for the runout bulge on pitch two. Two bolted anchors exist but are in questionable condition and should be approached with caution. Double 70m ropes recommended for rappel, as 60m ropes will not reach from the top pitch to the first belay.

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Tags

offwidth
crack climbing
exposed
runout
multi-pitch
Sierra granite
dike feature
California trad