"Crazy Nights delivers a sharp, satisfying trad climb on Box Springs Mountain’s Main Wall Right. Featuring a deep fist jam crack and a sandy, committing top out, this short pitch challenges climbers to hone hand jams and friction skills in a sun-drenched, accessible setting."
Located on the Main Wall Right section of Box Springs Mountain Park, Crazy Nights offers a focused slice of traditional climbing packed into a brief but satisfying route. This climb features a distinct deep fist jam crack positioned just to the right of a large square block, providing a tactile challenge that demands hand strength and precise technique. The rock’s texture feels gritty under the fingers, with sandy bits lending a slight unpredictability to placements. The crux awaits at the top out, where the crack narrows and the path requires steady footwork and commitment. Though the crux holds a subtle tension, climbers are supported by good bolts installed for safe top-rope anchors, allowing for a controlled descent or practice run.
Crazy Nights distills the essence of a classic trad climb into a compact 10-foot pitch — short in length but rich in technical demand. Its 5.9 rating is accurate but leans toward approachable, making this climb an excellent choice for those stepping into crack climbing without the intimidation of towering big walls. The route’s positioning on the Main Wall Right benefits from morning sun, warming the rock and drying the sand rapidly, so early starts or mid-morning climbs are best for grip and comfort.
Approaching Crazy Nights is straightforward: hike the maintained trails of Box Springs Mountain Park, a public space blending desert and chaparral with views stretching across the Inland Empire. The approach is short, suited for a quick warm-up or a focused session targeting a specific skill set. The area is popular yet retains a grounded, unpretentious vibe—an ideal setting for climbers who prioritize hands-on learning and connection with the rock over flashy multi-pitch exploits.
Protection on this climb is strictly traditional: the crack offers gem placements for cams and nuts, with some requiring careful assessment due to sandy deposits. Bolts reside only at the top to rig a reliable top rope, so self-reliance and solid gear judgment remain essential. Climbers tackling Crazy Nights will benefit from a rack that emphasizes small to medium-sized cams to comfortably lock into the crack’s shape.
Box Springs Mountain Park itself is a climbing pocket within the Inland Empire region of Southern California. Its terrain is rugged but accessible, providing ample opportunities for short climbs like Crazy Nights that serve as introductions to exposing hand jams and top out moves. The park's surroundings are marked by a dry, sunbaked landscape where chaparral bushes sway in the breeze and distant city sounds mingle with ambient bird calls. The climb’s brief length encourages repeated attempts, making it ideal for refining skills or coaching newcomers through the fundamentals of crack climbing.
A gentle reminder: the top out, while bolted for safety, can feel sandy and loose, demanding careful foot placement and steady composure. Carrying enough water is recommended—especially in warmer months—as the area’s sun exposure can rapidly sap energy. Durable climbing shoes that provide solid friction will help maintain purchase on the gritty rock surface.
In summary, Crazy Nights embodies an accessible but precise trad climb on Box Springs Mountain. It’s an invitation to engage with crack climbing in a measured way, framed by Southern California’s distinct terrain. Whether you’re bridging the gap between beginner cracks and more complex routes or simply seeking a quick challenge to sharpen skills, this climb offers a genuine session grounded in real climbing technique and environmental awareness.
Be vigilant at the top out—sandy holds can undermine footholds and demand careful movement. While bolts provide secure top-rope anchors, always double-check gear placements given the loose nature of sand deposits within the crack.
Start climbs in the morning to take advantage of warming sun on the rock.
Bring a rack heavy on small to medium cams to fit crack size variations.
Top out carefully—expect sandy holds requiring precise footwork.
Hydrate well and wear durable shoes for maximum friction on gritty surfaces.
Traditional gear is essential here, focusing on small to medium cams for secure placements within the deep fist jam crack. Although bolts top the route for safe top-roping, all other protection relies on well-placed pro amid sandy sections.
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