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Crazy Daze

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
flake
West Wall
Lover's Leap
Lake Tahoe
exposed
route-finding
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Crazy Daze
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crazy Daze offers a gritty three-pitch trad climb along Lover’s Leap’s West Wall. It sidesteps well-known lines for flaring cracks and huge flakes, blending technical moves with rugged terrain for a rewarding adventure beyond the weekend crowds."

Crazy Daze

Crazy Daze unfolds like a quiet challenge pressed against the imposing West Wall of Lover's Leap, a beloved climbing destination just off Highway 50 near Lake Tahoe, California. This three-pitch trad route starts at the same base as the well-known Hospital Corner but quickly veers left into a less-trodden, more unpredictable line. The climb demands steady hands and a good head for route-finding along flaring cracks and crumbly dikes, pushing you to maintain position along the route’s left edge. The challenge crescendos at a massive, jutting flake that looms like a doorway at the maw of the cliff's face—your final gateway before topping out on a broad ledge.

What strikes you immediately is the ruggedness of the climb. The rock here tests both technique and patience; sketchier sections compel slower, deliberate moves. Yet the experience remains deeply rewarding. The wall’s character is rough and elemental—each pitch offers its own slice of the rock’s raw personality without the clamor of busy routes. Once atop, you gain access not just to the wide-open views of the West Wall but also to the broader Lover's Leap climbing zone, with easy options to continue or rappel back down.

The route’s protection calls for a full rack capped with cams up to 3 inches and a standard set of nuts. Placement can be tricky in spots, requiring attention to detail and confidence in gear—this isn’t the place for complacency. That said, the route avoids the hard-hammer moves of some nearby classics, making it a solid choice for climbers ready to step beyond weekend sport climbs into the rhythm of traditional multi-pitch adventure. It’s a climb that rewards a thoughtful approach as much as physical effort.

The approach to Crazy Daze blends a moderate hike with scrambling along well-marked trails to the West Wall’s base. The path cuts through pine groves crisp with mountain air, and the constant view of towering granite spires sets the stage for the excitement ahead. Timing your climb is best in spring and fall when the rock is dry and the heat is tempered by cool breezes. Midday climbs risk harsh sun exposure on the southern-facing wall, so early starts or late afternoons provide the most pleasant conditions.

In planning your ascent, consider hydration and solid footwear; the terrain beneath is uneven with loose stone patches near the ledges. The descent is straightforward—a rappel from fixed anchors or walk-off options depending on your route choice atop the wall. Navigating back along the trail demands focus; loose scree and narrow ledges can catch climbers off guard as daylight fades.

Crazy Daze doesn’t announce itself loudly but grows on you with every careful move and thoughtful placement. It’s a route that invites quiet respect rather than bravado and offers a grounded climb with enough edge to excite those ready to explore Lover’s Leap’s less crowded vertical lines.

Climber Safety

Some sections near the ledges involve loose dikes and flares that demand careful foot and hand placements. Watch for rockfall potential during warming seasons. The descent includes exposed walk-offs where caution is crucial, especially if the rock is damp or loose.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the southern-facing West Wall.

Wear solid climbing shoes suited for crack climbing and slab moves.

Bring extra water as the approach and climb can be dehydrating under the sun.

Check and clean your gear thoroughly before the climb—loose rock demands reliable protection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating feels fair with a few sections that bump difficulty due to tricky protection and uneven rock quality. While not as polished as nearby classics like Hospital Corner, Crazy Daze rewards solid crack technique and route-reading skills. The rating rarely feels soft—climbers should expect sustained effort, especially on the second pitch.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack including cams up to 3 inches and a set of nuts is essential. Expect some tricky placements along the flaring cracks and dikes, requiring careful gear selection and attention.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
flake
West Wall
Lover's Leap
Lake Tahoe
exposed
route-finding