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Cracktacular: A Classic Trad Climb in New Brunswick's Queen Wall

Kingston, Canada
crack climb
trad
single pitch
moderate protection
Kingston Crag
wet ledge
jam technique
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cracktacular
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cracktacular is a dynamic single-pitch trad climb on Kingston Crag’s Queen Wall, offering a varied crack that challenges your jam technique and gear placements. It’s a solid 5.9 PG13 route that combines a brief scramble approach with a rewarding, technical ascent in a quiet Canadian climbing spot."

Cracktacular: A Classic Trad Climb in New Brunswick's Queen Wall

Cracktacular offers climbers a compelling single-pitch adventure set against the rugged backdrop of Kingston Crag, in New Brunswick’s Queen Wall area. Approaching the route involves a brief but technical 8-foot scramble to reach a moisture-slick ledge that immediately sets the tone for this gritty crack climb. The crack itself demands a versatile toolkit of crack climbing techniques—from finger jams to hand jams and larger fists—challenging climbers to read its shifting size and rhythm as they ascend.

At 60 feet in length, this climb is a pure expression of traditional climbing where gear placement and body movement intertwine. The rock bears the patina of countless attempts but remains solid, requiring a well-equipped rack with protection sized up to three inches to confidently safeguard the climb. As you work your way up, the crack's dynamics fluctuate—the narrower sections testing finesse and balance, while the wider parts invite powerful hand jams and layback sequences.

Kingston Crag's location on the Queen Wall is remote enough to provide a sense of wilderness without demanding a full-day trek. The area is cool and shaded for much of the day, making it a pleasant spot even during the warmer months. The climb’s 5.9 PG13 rating reflects the climb’s moderate technical challenge paired with a protection rating that calls for solid gear placements and experience with runouts.

For those drawn to trad climbing that rewards attentiveness and steady progression, Cracktacular stands out as a solid choice in New Brunswick. It’s an ideal route for climbers looking to hone crack climbing skills while enjoying the quiet strength of Canada’s lesser-known granite faces.

Planning your ascent, anticipate a short approach that offers glimpses of dense forest gradually giving way to exposed rock faces. Ensure your rack covers the full range up to 3-inch cams to protect all the sized sections of the crack safely. Timing your climb for earlier in the day will maximize comfort and reduce dampness on the ledge. The descent is straightforward from the top, but wearing sturdy shoes on the scramble down is advised to maintain sure footing.

This climb delivers a focused dose of trad climbing finesse in a setting that quietly commands respect without overwhelming, a perfect canvas for both improving climbers and seasoned trad enthusiasts.

Climber Safety

Wet ledge at the start can be slippery—proceed cautiously and wear shoes with solid grip. Protection placements go up to 3 inches; ensure your gear fills this range to avoid long runouts.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to avoid dampness on the base ledge after rainfall.

Bring a well-rounded rack, particularly cams up to 3 inches, for secure protection.

Wear shoes with good grip for the short scramble approach.

Plan descent carefully; the walk-off requires surefootedness on loose rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 grade signals a climb that feels moderately challenging on technique and endurance, with protection that requires thoughtful placements but nothing overly intimidating. The grading feels fair, offering a satisfying balance between physical moves and mental focus on gear. It aligns well with similar moderate trad climbs in the region.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams up to 3 inches recommended to cover the full range of crack widths.

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Tags

crack climb
trad
single pitch
moderate protection
Kingston Crag
wet ledge
jam technique