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Cracker Joe: A Classic 5.9 Trad Crack in the Laurentians

Mont-Tremblant, Canada
trad crack
single pitch
finger jams
hand cracks
northeast face
mixed forest approach
standard rack
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cracker Joe
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cracker Joe offers a pure crack climb in Quebec's Laurentians, combining reliable protection with a focused single pitch. Ideal for trad climbers looking to sharpen their technique in a scenic forest setting."

Cracker Joe: A Classic 5.9 Trad Crack in the Laurentians

Cracker Joe offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that beckons those eager to test their crack climbing skills against solid Quebec rock. Located in the Montagne d'Argent area of the Laurentians, this 40-foot route begins with the same approach as the nearby Exacto but veers left to follow a clean, inviting crack system. The crack’s rhythm carries you upward with consistent hand and finger jams, demanding attentive footwork and precise gear placements. The stone is firm and textured, providing reliable friction for your climbing shoes, and the crack itself swallows a variety of standard protection, offering confidence and flexibility in your rack choices. This climb is compact yet engaging, a perfect introduction to trad climbing in a northern forest setting that stretches its canopy above you.

As you ascend, listen to the gentle rustling of the Laurentian forest around you—the trees seem to watch quietly while the breeze nudges the leaves, adding a subtle soundtrack to your efforts. The climb’s straightforward line provides a pure crack experience, with no excessive overhangs or ledges to negotiate. Yet the technical requirements—precise gear placement and sustained jam sequences—keep your focus sharp.

Planning your day here is straightforward. The approach follows a well-marked path starting near Le Fou, with clear landmarks guiding you into the Montagne d'Argent sector. Expect a short but sometimes uneven hike through mixed woods, making steady shoes with good traction a must. Because the route faces northeast, mornings deliver crisp shade and cooler rock, turning warmer sunlight on the stone by afternoon. Spring through fall offers the best conditions, with late spring’s fresh greenery and fall’s crisp air framing your climb in natural comfort.

Gear up with a standard trad rack including a range of cams suitable for finger to hand-sized cracks, and don’t forget slings and a personal anchor system for the bolted anchors atop. The protection placements here are trustworthy but demand thoughtful assessment, particularly where the crack narrows or widens unexpectedly. Anchors at the summit are solid, permitting a clean, straightforward rappel or the option to downclimb if conditions and skill allow.

Local climbers appreciate Cracker Joe for its blend of approachable commitment and technical crack climbing. It’s a solid way to sharpen your technique on real rock outside of gym walls, set against a background of thick forest and the quiet majesty of the Laurentian mountains. Bring plenty of water, consider early starts to avoid afternoon warmth, and pack layers—the mountain's microclimate can shift quickly. Above all, respect the natural rock and follow Leave No Trace principles to keep this classic line in pristine condition for the next climbers.

Cracker Joe invites you into a focused, crack-centered face climb where preparation meets opportunity. With solid gear placements, a serene forest setting, and a perfect length for a morning or afternoon session, this route exemplifies trad climbing's honest appeal and straightforward adventure.

Climber Safety

Though the rock is generally solid, pay close attention to gear placements in tighter sections of the crack, where placements can feel less secure. The approach trail includes some uneven footing, so maintain caution when ferrying gear. Seasonal wetness can make holds slick, especially after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler rock and avoid afternoon heat on the northeast-facing wall.

Approach via the marked trail near Le Fou, allowing about 30 minutes for the hike.

Wear sturdy footwear with good traction for the mixed forest terrain to the base.

Check anchor hardware before climbing; while robust, routine inspection is recommended.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.9, Cracker Joe feels true to grade with solid protection and a sustained crack sequence. The difficulty lies in consistent technique rather than brute power, making it approachable for climbers comfortable with jam placements and footwork. Compared to nearby routes like Exacto, it offers a smoother line with fewer tricky moves but demands attentiveness in gear positioning.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack covering finger to hand-sized cams, slings for extending placements, and a personal anchor system for the bolted anchors at the top. The crack accepts gear well, but be prepared for some tight spots requiring careful placement.

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Tags

trad crack
single pitch
finger jams
hand cracks
northeast face
mixed forest approach
standard rack