Cracked: A Compact Trad Challenge on Cenotaph Spire

Boulder, Colorado United States
hand crack
single pitch
trad
steady jams
granite
Boulder Canyon
north-facing
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cracked
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cracked is a sharp, single-pitch trad climb on Cenotaph Spire offering a concentrated dose of hand jams and technical placements. Its brief yet steep passage makes it an ideal warm-up for Harebell or a precise test of crack climbing skills."

Cracked: A Compact Trad Challenge on Cenotaph Spire

Cracked offers a focused taste of classic hand jam climbing on one of Boulder Canyon's distinctive spires. Rising 50 feet in a single pitch, this route demands precision and calm from the moment you step onto the ledge ten feet up—the same starting point as Harebell but veering sharply right into an open-hand corner. The crack quickly tightens, inviting you to engage a series of secure hand jams that offer reliable protection against a backdrop of steep exposure. The transition from wide gold to tight blue Camalots emphasizes the need for well-chosen gear and calculated placements. This route’s steep section climbs confidently, rewarding climbers who appreciate technical jam sequences and minimal route cleaning.

Though brief, the crux presents a perfect stretch of hands jams that challenge your technique without overstaying its welcome. The sustained effort lies in smooth movement and gear management rather than continuous difficulty, making Cracked a superb warm-up or a test of one’s grinding precision before heading to Harebell. Anchoring at the chains above Harebell's top provides a straightforward, safe finish.

Approaching the spire requires a short trek through Boulder Canyon’s rugged terrain, where the air is sharp and the views uncompromising. The climbing area benefits from a north-facing aspect that favors morning ascents in spring through early fall, when the rock is dry, grippy, and cool underfoot. For gear, climbers should pack a solid range of cams, focusing on sizes that fill wide crack sections comfortably to smaller pro for the technical moves. Doubles in hand-sized cams are ideal for locking in security through the steeper sections.

Though it lacks length, Cracked exudes a practical charm born from its straightforward yet exacting climbing style. The spire’s granite calls to climbers looking for a no-frills lead up authentic crack features that test their fundamentals. With low traffic and minimal cleaning needed, this climb offers a direct encounter with the rock’s natural texture and demands respect for the rhythms of trad protection. In all, Cracked is an accessible step into Boulder Canyon’s vertical playground, an invitation to focus on technique and flow amid one of Colorado’s classic climbing venues.

Plan to arrive early to avoid afternoon sun, bring durable shoes suited for crack climbing, and prepare your rack for a range of cams that will let you lock the pieces in snugly. Expect a brief but rewarding experience that hones your gear skills and sharpens your jamming technique in a setting defined by clear lines and the stark purity of granite rock.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements on the ledge start and ensure pro is well-seated in the steeper crack section. The rock quality is stable but maintaining focus on gear placement reduces any risk of long falls. The route is short but fairly exposed—stay clipped into the anchor chains above Harebell for safe exit.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start from the ledge about 10 feet up, same as Harebell but head right into the open-hand corner.

Pack cams with sizes ranging from wide (gold) to tight (blue Camalots), duplicates recommended in hand sizes.

Morning climbs offer cooler rock due to the north-facing aspect; avoid afternoon heat.

Minimal cleaning is necessary, but check placements carefully before committing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, the climb is relatively moderate but requires solid hand jam technique. The crux isn't prolonged but demands neat execution and confident gear placement. Compared to other Boulder Canyon trad routes, it is a bit shorter and less sustained, offering a gentler introduction before moving on to more challenging pitches like Harebell.

Gear Requirements

Bring a set of cams with emphasis on hand-sized pieces; doubles in the hand sizes will help secure protection through the steep crack section. The anchor is fixed chains shared with Harebell.

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Tags

hand crack
single pitch
trad
steady jams
granite
Boulder Canyon
north-facing