HomeClimbingCrack Variation

Crack Variation at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Boulder, Colorado United States
lichen
trad
technical moves
single pitch
protection sparse
dry air
granite
Boulder Canyon
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack Variation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crack Variation offers an exacting trad challenge in The Bihedral’s upper section, weaving through lichen-stained granite and tight seams below a striking headwall. This one-pitch route rewards climbers with sharp technique and a calm approach to light protection."

Crack Variation at The Bihedral (Upper Tier)

Crack Variation stands as a quietly challenging testpiece in The Bihedral’s Upper Tier, calling for steady nerves and precise gear placement amid Boulder Canyon's rugged granite faces. Starting near the midpoint of the neighboring route, Bihedral, this single-pitch climb veers hard right around a distinct bulge, threading its way beneath a small conifer that clings stubbornly to the rock. The ascent follows broken, lichen-streaked stone, peppered with occasional seams and widening cracks, inviting a careful and attentive approach. Moving upward toward a towering headwall, the route demands a measured undercling to the left, passing a striking fissure named Thumb Tack, before peeling left around a corner to reach the top of the bihedral for a belay.

With a length of roughly 120 feet from Rhodian Shores’ belay, Crack Variation is far from beginner-friendly. The rock’s rough texture is offset by patches of slippery lichen that require confident footwork and secure holds. Protection is sparse; a light rack with small cams and nuts is appropriate, although some placements are delicate and require a practiced hand. From the top of Rhodian Shores, an alternate approach involves moving up and left past a roof before angling hard right to the crack’s beginning, but this variation tests patience—offering either no pro early on or a route fraught with drag.

The climb demands respect not only for its technical challenges but also the judgment required to read the route and gear placements under less-than-ideal conditions. Boulder Canyon’s granite here holds an intimate connection between climber and rock—every move driven by feel and finesse rather than brute force. The surrounding high desert air often carries a dry crispness, making hydration a top priority, while the sun’s arc tends to illuminate the wall by mid-morning, highlighting the texture and subtle features within the cracks. Footwear with sticky rubber and a steady head will bring the best results, as the delicate placements and slick lichen patches create a climb where caution and skill walk hand in hand.

Climber Safety

Lichen patches obscure footholds and handholds, making slips a real hazard. Given the limited protection, build confidence in placements before committing to hard moves. Avoid climbing after rain, as wet lichen can become dangerously slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Bring sticky rubber shoes to handle lichen-covered sections with more grip.

Start early to avoid climbing in direct afternoon sun on the wall.

Watch for delicate gear placements; keep your rack light and manageable.

Hydrate well before the approach; Boulder Canyon’s dry air can be draining.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade loosely captures the route’s combination of moderate climbing with risky protection. Although the moves themselves don’t push into higher technical territory, the sparse pro and tricky placements ramp up the seriousness. Climbers who are comfortable with 5.9 but less confident in gear placement may find this route stiff. It compares to other Boulder Canyon trad lines where careful route-reading and gear sense elevate the grade beyond pure difficulty.

Gear Requirements

A light rack consisting of small cams and nuts suits the route best. Protection is scarce and somewhat tricky due to lichen and broken rock, so an experienced eye is essential for safe placements.

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Tags

lichen
trad
technical moves
single pitch
protection sparse
dry air
granite
Boulder Canyon