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Crack to Dihedral: Echo Canyon Trad Adventure

Golden, Colorado United States
trad crack
multi-pitch
dihedral
Colorado
exposed moves
protection-heavy
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Crack to Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crack to Dihedral offers a deceptively challenging trad climb on Echo Canyon’s right side, blending technical crack sequences with a leaning dihedral finish. Ideal for climbers ready to practice precise protection in exposed terrain."

Crack to Dihedral: Echo Canyon Trad Adventure

Echo Canyon’s Crack to Dihedral presents a compelling test of traditional climbing skill, situated on the right flank of The Scoop’s rugged crag face. This route carries a deceptively straightforward look, but once you’re on the rock, its challenges assert themselves with quiet insistence. The climb starts just right of a distinct tree, where a crack emerges above the ground, inviting climbers into a sequence that demands both patience and precise protection placement. The first pitch asks you to negotiate a bulge that could feel much harder if approached head-on; many find a subtle detour to the right eases the difficulty, allowing a measured approach to delicate slopers before reconnecting with the crack’s flare. This flare won’t give ample security without careful gear placement and steady footwork. Beyond it, a small bulge flanked by solid jugs and a final move past a ledge sets you on a stable belay ledge to regroup and assess the wall ahead.

The second pitch opens up into a leaning dihedral, welcoming in its holds but not without its own demands. Climbers share this pitch across several routes, adding a communal feel to this segment. Big holds guide your path upward to a ledge, followed by a short, bouldery move over a horn that requires both confidence and controlled power. For many, the option to traverse right after the first pitch presents an accessible alternative or an early exit if the conditions or energy level suggest. To descend, follow the gentle angling walk-off at the crag’s backside, keeping your footing sure on the uneven ground.

Protection demands respect: the route calls for a full set from yellow Alien cams through to #4 old-size Camalots, complemented by #10 and #11 hexes. Long slings are highly recommended for extending placements around flares and tricky bulges, allowing better rope management and minimizing drag. Fatal falls here are avoided only through cautious, well-planned gear commitment.

Echo Canyon itself, set within Coal Creek Canyon’s vibrant landscape near Golden, Colorado, offers rocky, shaded exposure mixed with dappled sunlight filtering through towering trees. Seasonal timing matters — spring and fall bring cooler conditions and less crowded walls, while summer heats up the rock and invites lingering in the shade.

This route speaks to climbers who appreciate moderate difficulty with a touch of exposure and technical gear work. It’s a perfect training ground to sharpen crack climbing instincts while savoring the natural beauty and solitude of this less-traveled crag area.

Climber Safety

Falls from some spots on this climb, especially above the flare, could be serious due to limited protection options. Place gear meticulously and avoid rushing through bulges where slips can lead to dangerous falls. The descent walk-off on uneven terrain requires careful footing to prevent scrambles or injuries.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach starts right of a tree marking the route's base; keep an eye for this distinct feature.

Consider traversing right after the first pitch as an alternate descent.

Bring long slings to manage the gear on tricky flare sections.

Spring and fall provide the best temperatures and fewer crowds.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8 PG13, Crack to Dihedral feels a bit stiffer than its rating suggests due to the technical flare and careful gear placements required. The crux isn’t a single hard move but a string of sustained sections that demand steady focus. Compared to other local 5.8 climbs, this route tests both head and hands under exposure, making it a solid step up from straightforward crack climbs.

Gear Requirements

Full trad rack needed: yellow Alien cams, #0.5 to #4 old-size Camalots, plus #10 and #11 hexes. Long slings improve placements and reduce rope drag around flares and bulges.

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Tags

trad crack
multi-pitch
dihedral
Colorado
exposed moves
protection-heavy