HomeClimbingCrack Test Dummies

Crack Test Dummies: A Bold Ascent Through El Potrero Chico’s Rugged Spine

El Salto, Mexico
crack climbing
sport bolts
multipitch
stemming
hand jams
exposed
limestone
El Potrero Chico
Length: 250 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Crack Test Dummies
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crack Test Dummies snakes up a commanding crack line amid El Potrero Chico's sharp limestone spires. Combining steadfast bolt protection with compelling crack climbing, this three-pitch route offers climbers a gritty ascent full of technique, route-finding, and rewarding exposure."

Crack Test Dummies: A Bold Ascent Through El Potrero Chico’s Rugged Spine

Carving a path through the jagged needles of Las Agujas, Crack Test Dummies is a focused adventure for climbers ready to embrace a compelling blend of crack climbing and sport bolts amidst the striking limestone formations of El Potrero Chico. This route trails the heart of a sprawling crack system that demands both technique and steady determination over three pitches and 250 feet of vertical grit.

From the first step, the climb invites you into a rhythm of hand jams and stemming that tests your ability to read the rock while managing spaced bolts. The opening pitch, rated 5.7, starts easy enough but grows challenging as the bolt spacing widens—requiring thoughtful gear placements and steady footwork. This section sets the tone with 100 tactful feet along the crack, just before a belay ledge that feels earned.

Pitch two shifts the ledger up a notch. While the guidebook suggests 5.8, climbers often agree this pitch ticks up to a demanding 5.9, thanks to a sequence of stemming moves, delicate face climbing, and several hand jams that ask for deliberate technique. At 138 feet, it’s the longest segment and is punctuated by bolts placed a little off-line, encouraging the use of slings and calculated route-finding. The pitch ends at a secure 5-bolt anchor, offering a comfortable stance to gather strength before the summit push.

The final 12 feet lift you through an airy 5.7 crack loaded with personality. It begins on a solid bolt before threading through a trio of weathered rings, culminating in twin chain anchors that mark the route's summit. Care is needed on the last few steps as you navigate over loose blocks to stand fully atop—the reward being panoramic views and the satisfying sense of completion that this distinct line offers.

Descending requires strategic rappelling. One climber lowers another 12 feet to good anchors, then rappels from the top of pitch two, making a long rappel to the anchors on the adjacent Gettin' Wood route—a descent that leans slightly down and upslope, followed by another long rappel to the ground. Using a 70-meter rope is recommended to ensure safe, confident descents.

This route is perched within El Potrero Chico, a rugged, wind-sculpted arena celebrated in the climbing world for its sharp granite spires and extended limestone walls. Its remote northern Mexico location rewards effort with sun-drenched walls, dry air, and a striking landscape that shifts dramatically with the light.

Practical gear advice includes bringing a rack that complements the bolt line: roughly 10 bolts are on route, but be prepared to supplement with slings to manage occasionally distant protection. A moderate level of crack climbing proficiency is essential for safely navigating jams and stemming sections. Timing your climb in cooler morning hours will help keep friction high and sweat low.

Crack Test Dummies offers an engaging balance of sport convenience and crack climbing authenticity, a route that gently nudges climbers beyond straightforward bolt-to-bolt ascents into a terrain that rewards creativity, precision, and steady nerves. It's perfect for those looking to blend technical crack skills with the security of fixed protection in one of Mexico’s iconic climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks near the summit require a careful finish; control your steps when traversing the last section. Additionally, several bolts show signs of weathering, so double-check anchors before trusting them fully, and prepare for a multi-stage rappel that demands good rope management.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid the heat and enjoy cooler, grippier rock.

Carry a 70-meter rope for efficient rappels down the route and neighboring climbs.

Pack gloves or tape fingers for protection during crack jams on pitch two.

Check weather forecasts carefully; sudden downpours can loosen blocks near the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Crack Test Dummies delivers a climb that feels slightly stiff, mainly due to the sustained crack moves and some technical stemming on pitch two. The bolts provide security, but the spacing forces climbers to supplement with slings and careful gear placement—particularly on the longest pitch—adding to the mental and physical challenge compared to local sport climbs with closer bolt spacing.

Gear Requirements

The route features around 10 bolts spaced over three pitches, but climbers should bring slings and some auxiliary gear for extending protection, especially on the second pitch where bolts can be irregularly placed.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Crack Test Dummies and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

crack climbing
sport bolts
multipitch
stemming
hand jams
exposed
limestone
El Potrero Chico