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Crack Route at Malaria Crag: A Classic 5.9- Trad Challenge

Mountain Home Village, California United States
right-facing dihedral
crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
South California
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Crack Route at Malaria Crag is a focused single-pitch trad climb featuring a right-facing dihedral and a mix of crack and face holds. Perfect for those honing trad skills, this moderate 5.9- route offers solid protection in a striking desert mountain setting."

Crack Route at Malaria Crag: A Classic 5.9- Trad Challenge

Set against the rugged backdrop of Malaria Crag, tucked within the Mountain Home Creek corridor of California's San Bernardino Mountains, the Crack Route presents a focused, approachable trad climb that balances technical savvy with straightforward enjoyment. This single-pitch, 50-foot climb invites climbers to engage with the rock intimately, beginning with a confident reach to the first bolt before settling into a right-facing dihedral. The crack here offers versatile climbing options—whether you choose to follow the line of cracks or test your body on adjacent face holds, protection is essential and accessible within this section. As you navigate the dihedral’s clean edges, the rock’s texture demands deliberate footwork and mindful gear placements, rewarding precision over power. Above, a second bolt punctuates the pathway as you negotiate the final moves toward a secure bolted anchor.

The route’s rating at 5.9- hints at a moderate challenge—ideal for climbers who have mastered basic crack techniques but want to refine their trad skills on naturally featured granite. Protection calls for a mix of cams up to 1 inch, complemented by the two bolts along the line, providing a reassuring safety buffer while maintaining an engaging lead. The approach offers a taste of the San Bernardino Mountains’ openness: expect a short hike with mixed terrain, weaving through scrub and rock outcrops under an open sky that frames the surrounding ridges.

Planning your climb here means preparing for desert mountain conditions—light layers for morning chill, sturdy shoes for both approach and foot jams, and plenty of water. Timing your ascent in spring or fall ensures comfortable temperatures, while midday sun might intensify the stone’s warmth. Beyond the climb, the area offers quiet solitude, with views that stretch across dry creek beds and distant peaks, inviting a moment to absorb the landscape before your descent.

For climbers eyeing their next trad adventure in Southern California, the Crack Route at Malaria Crag presents an authentic taste of granite climbing with a clear, manageable route rhythm. It’s a route that nurtures skill growth, rewarding climbers with tangible progress and a satisfying summit stance on the tiny ledge above the dihedral. Whether prepping for longer alpine routes or simply seeking a reliable single pitch to enjoy, this climb’s blend of rock features and protection options makes it a memorable stop on any adventure itinerary.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of the protection placements within the dihedral—gear can be tricky due to narrow crack widths, so don’t rush placements. The small ledge at the first bolt is stable, but exposure can catch new climbers off guard.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on exposed granite.

Approach trail crosses patches of brush; wear long pants to prevent scrapes.

Bring finger tape for crack jams, as the crack size varies slightly.

Check gear placements carefully above the dihedral where holds thin out.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9-, the Crack Route offers a slightly forgiving challenge that tests basic crack climbing technique without overwhelming. The grade feels true to standard Southern California trad climbs, with a subtle crux at the transition out of the dihedral to the anchor. It's an excellent step-up climb for those moving beyond beginner cracks.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack with cams up to 1 inch and be prepared to use the two bolts for added security. The bolted anchor ensures a solid top-out. Shoes with sticky rubber will help with delicate face holds.

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Tags

right-facing dihedral
crack climbing
traditional protection
single pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
South California