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Crack of Redemption: A Bold Yosemite Trad Adventure

Yosemite Valley, California United States
offwidth
chimney
mossy rock
multi-pitch
Yosemite
trad gear
fixed ropes approach
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Crack of Redemption
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Carving a distinct line on Elephant Rock’s far left, Crack of Redemption challenges trad climbers with gritty offwidths and puzzling chimneys coated in moss. This three-pitch route blends technical finesse with Yosemite’s serene canyon backdrop, ideal for those seeking a raw and focused trad experience."

Crack of Redemption: A Bold Yosemite Trad Adventure

Set on the far left flank of Elephant Rock, the Crack of Redemption offers a rugged and raw climbing experience deep within Yosemite Valley. This three-pitch trad route presents an intimate encounter with textured granite, where moss and lichen cling stubbornly to the rock, demanding focused footwork and careful holds. The climb begins with an offwidth and squeeze chimney, peppered with chockstones that break the rhythm and require precise maneuvering. The right-hand wall holds a dense coating of moss, adding a layer of challenge and character to the pitch. Approaching the climb itself is straightforward and practical: most climbers prefer rappelling directly to the base via fixed ropes on the Northeast Face, eliminating the need to carry approach shoes or negotiate thick brush.

Pitch two opens in a sheltered alcove behind a large bay tree, where unusual chimney moves transition into a delightful jam crack ascending a sharp corner. Here, the rock feels more exposed but remains solid, and the rhythm favors steady jams and careful balance. Moisture can be a factor early in this pitch—the rock may stay damp after rain, making this section more treacherous and demanding extra attention. The final pitch threads steeply up a narrow gully to confront a formidable offwidth roof. A natural tunnel through the back of this obstacle lets climbers bypass the roof, giving options to squeeze back out or traverse before a tight, exposed exit to the top.

Protection demands range from smaller cams to pieces up to 4 inches, with placements that favor gear versatility, especially in the offwidth and chimney sections. Though not overwhelmingly long at roughly 400 feet, the route’s character lies in its gritty texture and intermittent challenges, rewarding climbers with a sense of accomplishment and seclusion. Climbers should avoid attempts after precipitation; wet moss transforms the climb into a hazardous venture. With its solid but occasionally dirty rock, the Crack of Redemption stands as a true test of offwidth skills in one of Yosemite’s quieter corners.

Beyond the climb itself, Elephant Rock occupies a generous swath of the Lower Merced River Canyon, offering a rugged escape from Yosemite’s bustling core. The Northeast Face approach rope descent is a smart choice, providing efficiency and saving energy for the climb. The surrounding area is defined by sunlight filtering through scattered trees and the distant current of the Merced River daring you onward—an environment that feels alive and patient. As a trad line, this route calls for thorough planning: solid gear, clear weather, and steady hands make the difference between a memorable ascent and unnecessary risk.

Whether you’re stepping into offwidth climbing or seeking a quiet Yosemite challenge away from the crowds, Crack of Redemption delivers with a gritty purity and natural flow. Its three-pitch length offers a concise yet varied journey, blending technical moves with moments of steady jamming and mental focus. Pack your gear accordingly, take care with approach and descent, and be ready to negotiate mossy holds that add an unpredictable element to this compelling crack climb.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution when moss is wet—this climb becomes significantly more slippery and unstable after rain. The offwidth sections offer limited natural protection, so secure gear placements meticulously and avoid loose rock around chockstones.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Avoid climbing after rain—wet moss creates dangerously slippery holds.

Use the Northeast Face fixed ropes to rappel directly to the route’s base.

Pack a full offwidth and chimney gear rack; placements can be subtle.

Belay at spacious ledges protected by bay trees to rest between pitches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At a 5.9 rating, Crack of Redemption feels solid but slightly stiff due to offwidth moves and tricky protection. The crux includes negotiating chockstones and roof bypass, which elevate the grade’s difficulty compared to standard 5.9 climbs. Climbers familiar with Yosemite’s offwidth routes will find this route in line with local standards, balancing sustained technical sequences with rest spots.

Gear Requirements

Protection ranges from micro cams to pieces up to 4 inches. Expect tricky gear placements in offwidths and chimneys; a versatile rack is essential. Fixed ropes on the Northeast Face facilitate access, eliminating the need for approach shoes.

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Tags

offwidth
chimney
mossy rock
multi-pitch
Yosemite
trad gear
fixed ropes approach