"Crack of Mind presents an accessible yet rewarding trad crack climb near Telluride, Colorado. Its clean splitter crack offers a measured challenge for climbers keen to test their technique without the intimidation of a true offwidth."
Crack of Mind sits just ten feet left of the well-known Chewbacca route, carving a slick, clean splitter crack into the rock face of Cracked Canyon. This 80-foot, single-pitch climb offers a memorable blend of technical crack climbing and subtle challenges that defy its initial impression. At first glance, the line might intimidate you with the menacing suggestion of an offwidth slog, but the reality is far gentler. Features both inside and alongside the six-inch crack provide reliable holds and gear placements, steering the route toward more traditional hand and finger crack techniques instead of brute offwidth tactics.
The climb starts with solid jams and delicate body positioning on textured stone, inviting climbers to focus on subtle balance rather than sheer power. Midway, smaller cracks within the broader crack thread provide useful pro options, breaking up the line and adding safety without sacrificing flow. Near the top, a distinctive roof bends overhead, initially hinting at a crux, but careful footwork and measured moves render it surprisingly manageable. The rock quality is generally solid, and the crack’s consistent width lets you shake out and breathe between moves.
Located in the rugged reaches of the Telluride/Norwood area, this route offers more than just climbing—it immerses you in the raw landscape of Cracked Canyon. The canyon’s walls rise steeply around you, their burnished surfaces catching the light as the day moves forward. Expect a peaceful approach that winds through mixed forest and scree, preparing you both physically and mentally for the focused movement ahead.
Protective gear relies on a solid single set of cams and stoppers, with an emphasis on larger pieces—#4 to #5 Camalots fit the crack snugly and provide secure placements. Smaller gear fits comfortably inside secondary cracks, giving you confidence even when the main crack widens or juts out. This combination keeps the climb safe yet engaging, demanding good route-reading skills and a sense of rhythm.
Approach involves a moderate trek through rugged terrain with a GPS waypoint to guide your way to the base. Weather here shifts quickly, so plan climbs for clear, dry periods to ensure the rock grips and holds maintain their integrity. Because of the moderate elevation and exposure, morning starts are recommended to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in Colorado’s high country. Pulling the rope after the climb is straightforward, with a solid anchor system easily established near the top.
Crack of Mind is ideally suited for climbers comfortable with traditional protection and crack techniques seeking a moderate challenge in a striking setting. It’s a concise pitch that rewards both technical skill and tactical thinking—perfect for a day when you want to test your crack climbing without committing to an extended multi-pitch venture. Whether you’re brushing up your hand jams or just craving a crisp, focused climb amid Colorado’s rugged spires, this route offers an authentic experience grounded in practicality and a touch of adventure.
Rock quality is generally solid but watch for occasional loose flakes near the roof section. Protection is ample with the right sizes of cams, but be cautious when placing gear inside smaller cracks to avoid marginal placements. Late summer afternoon storms can roll in quickly—plan your ascent and descent accordingly.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in Colorado’s high country.
Wear shoes with stiff toes to manage delicate edges on the slab and in the roof section.
Bring a full set of cams up to #5 Camalot to handle both wide and narrow sections safely.
Scour the approach trail GPS coordinates beforehand; the path can become loose and less distinct after rainfall.
A complete set of cams and stoppers is essential, with an emphasis on larger pieces like #4, #4.5, and #5 Camalots to protect the main crack effectively. Smaller cracks along the line allow placement of smaller gear, offering increased safety and reducing runouts.
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