"Crack Love II offers a focused finger and hand crack climb just off the well-known original line in Boulder Canyon. With solid rock, straightforward protection, and a memorable roof crux, this classic trad route is perfect for climbers sharpening their crack skills."
Crack Love II invites climbers into a focused, tactile journey along a well-defined crack system on Boulder Canyon’s rugged Third Tier. Just a few feet right of the original Crack Love’s distinct V-slot, this route demands steady hand and finger jams as the crack gradually widens and slightly flares. It begins with a short approach via a natural ramp that guides you into position, setting the stage for a climb that rewards precise technique over raw power.
The rock here is remarkable—solid, textured, and unwavering, providing confident placements and a consistently enjoyable crack climb. The physicality is straightforward yet engaging, making it approachable for those comfortable on cracks but still craving a little challenge. The route weaves upward for about 75 feet, culminating in a hand jam maneuver through a roof feature that tests your body positioning and core stability.
Protection is traditional and straightforward, relying on gear from small cams around half an inch up to sizable pieces in the 3.5-inch range. The placements are generally intuitive, though some attention in the flared sections will be necessary to find secure placements. At the top, a bolt-anchored two-ring anchor awaits, offering a safe and reliable lower-off.
Boulder Canyon’s exposure is moderate, framed by pine and fir trees that give faint dappled shade on bright days and the mountain air carries a crisp, pine-scented breeze. While the crux is subtle, the sustained nature of the crack climb keeps you engaged throughout, making it an excellent choice for trad climbers honing their crack skills or those looking for a refreshing, low-commitment climb that delivers on classic crack climbing essentials.
The approach is short and direct with a clean trail that avoids unnecessary bushwhacking, allowing you to focus on the climbing. For planning, a mid-morning ascent ensures the rock has warmed but isn’t still baking in the sun, as the route faces mostly east and benefits from early day sun and afternoon shade. Hydrate well and come prepared with gloves or tape if your skin needs protection, as the crack demands sustained jamming that can test finger endurance.
Though rated 5.9-, this line feels approachable rather than intimidating, with the grade reflecting modest crux moves and steady climbing rather than sharp difficulty spikes. Crack Love II sits comfortably alongside other classic Boulder Canyon crack routes but stands distinct with its clean hand and finger crack and a roof that adds a tangible milestone.
Overall, Crack Love II offers a valuable blend of accessible technical crack climbing with reliable protection and a short, pleasant hike. Its position in the scenic, calm setting of Third Tier within Boulder Canyon enhances the experience, making it a worthwhile day out for climbers seeking a strong, traditional crack challenge without the crowds or complexity of longer climbs.
Be mindful of gear placement in the flared sections; some gear can feel marginal if not set carefully. The roof pitch requires precise hand jams—failing to secure yourself properly here increases swing risk. The approach is straightforward but watch for loose rock near the trailhead.
Start early to catch morning sun on the east-facing wall.
Tape fingers or wear gloves for comfortable jams through the roof section.
Keep water handy—hydration is key even on shorter climbs.
Check wind conditions; Boulder Canyon can shift from calm to breezy quickly.
Bring a standard rack with cams from 0.5" to 3.5". The crack accepts a range of placements, though wider sections require larger gear. The top is equipped with a two-bolt anchor and rings for a safe 75' lower-off.
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