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Crack Love: Boulder Canyon’s Essential Hand Crack Challenge

Boulder, Colorado USA
hand crack
roof crux
single pitch
trad gear
Boulder Canyon
moderate difficulty
Length: 75 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack Love
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crack Love is a must-try single-pitch trad climb in Boulder Canyon, featuring technical hand jams, challenging roofs, and solid protection. Perfect for adventurous climbers eager to sharpen crack skills while enjoying stunning Colorado rock."

Crack Love: Boulder Canyon’s Essential Hand Crack Challenge

Rising sharply in the heart of Boulder Canyon’s rugged terrain, Crack Love commands attention as a classic 75-foot single-pitch trad climb that balances pure crack climbing techniques with a rewarding flow through layered rock features. Starting just a short scramble left and slightly up from the well-known Art of War route, this climb invites you to a hands-on dance with the stone. The initial V-slot demands precise finger and hand jams that test core stability and grip endurance. As you ascend, the crack widens into a solid hand crack, inviting confident placements and calculated rests.

A defining feature emerges at the first roof—a bold overhang that marks the crux. Here, technical skill blends with calculated power to surmount the obstacle, rewarding those who commit with a brief release from the sustained hand jams below. After this pitch’s heart-stopping move, the angle relaxes, and you’re rewarded with easier climbing to a cozy stance just beneath a sturdy tree. This natural belay station, equipped with slings and carabiners, offers both comfort and security, allowing you to pause and soak in the canyon’s vibrant energy.

Boulder Canyon itself is a versatile playground carved into Colorado’s Front Range, offering climbs that range from delicate slab to powerful cracks set against sandstone that holds its own character and grit. The approach is straightforward, with a manageable trail that threads through open rock faces and sparse vegetation, offering views of sweeping canyons and distant peaks.

Protection on Crack Love is versatile, requiring an assortment of cams ranging from 0.5 to 4 inches. These sizes provide solid options to anchor gear within the variable crack widths, especially around the roofs where strategic placements help mitigate the risk of falls. The gear placements tend to be sound but expect to search slightly for ideal spots, making this climb a good opportunity to refine gear judgment.

Climbers should prepare for a mix of physical endurance and technical crack climbing skills on this route. Footwear that offers precision and comfortable foot jams will smooth your ascent, while a moderate level of top-rope or leading experience ensures safety when working the crux roof. Timing your climb for late spring through early fall maximizes pleasant weather and dry conditions, as moisture can make the crack slippery and increase the difficulty.

Descend by lowering from the tree belay station, which is well-equipped to handle a controlled rappel or a straightforward lower. The descent trail back to the parking or approach path is short and easy, making this climb an excellent option for a focused afternoon session or a reliable warm-up for longer routes in the area.

Crack Love demands respect and attention, rewarding those who engage with its distinct features and rhythm. Its accessible yet challenging profile is perfect for climbers honing their crack technique and looking to savor the authentic feel of Boulder Canyon’s classic trad climbs.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the roofs and carefully test hand jams before committing. The roof crux demands precise movement—avoid overreaching or skipping gear placements to reduce risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length75 feet

Local Tips

Approach from the Art of War trail; Crack Love starts 75 feet up and left of that route.

Wear shoes with good crack climbing sensitivity to handle finger and hand jams effectively.

Plan your climb during dry weather to avoid slippery rock, especially around the roofs.

Use the sturdy tree anchor at the top for a safe and straightforward lower-off.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Crack Love offers solid value for climbers comfortable with moderate crack climbing. The grade is true to standard with a noticeably intense crux at the roof that slightly elevates the effort without pushing into 5.10 territory. Compared to neighboring routes like Art of War, it feels approachable yet rewarding.

Gear Requirements

Carry a complete cam rack with sizes from 0.5 to 4 inches to cover the V-slot, hand cracks, and anchor placements around the two roofs. Larger cams are essential for secure protection near the crux roof.

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Tags

hand crack
roof crux
single pitch
trad gear
Boulder Canyon
moderate difficulty