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Crack in Groove: A Focused Trad Classic at Horsetooth Reservoir

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
crack climb
single pitch
traditional gear
beginner friendly
Front Range
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack in Groove
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crack in Groove is a compact, accessible 5.8 trad route near Horsetooth Reservoir that blends solid protection with a crisp crack climb. Perfect for those eager to refine their technique or enjoy a brief, scenic ascent in Colorado’s Front Range."

Crack in Groove: A Focused Trad Classic at Horsetooth Reservoir

Crack in Groove offers a no-nonsense traditional climbing experience perched within the rugged backdrop of Horsetooth Reservoir, just outside Fort Collins, Colorado. This compact, 30-foot route packs a straightforward but engaging climb into a single pitch that appeals to both beginners stepping confidently into trad climbing and seasoned climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills. The approach guides you along a rocky ridgeline, where the shifting breeze hints at the open landscape below and the reservoir’s blue stretch invites reflection before the ascent. From the base of the climb, a nearby gully provides a manageable downclimb, adding a practical element to the adventure with reliable footing and clear direction.

The signature feature here is the crack itself—a clean, northeast-facing groove carved into solid rock. Climbers rely on traditional gear placements, particularly nuts, which serve a dual role for protection and to establish a secure top rope. The rock texture is firm, offering dependable holds without excessive polish, making hand and finger jams satisfying and secure. Given its moderate 5.8 rating, Crack in Groove strikes a balance between physicality and technique, emphasizing the tactile connection to the rock over brute strength. For those familiar with local climbs such as S-Crack or Cracky Face, this route is immediately recognizable, sitting between these two and offering a slightly more approachable edge.

Planning your climb here involves timing your visit to catch the wall’s northeast aspect where morning sun warms the rock but afternoon shade provides relief during warmer months. The environment around the route is open yet intimate, with the reservoir’s currents often audible in the distance and pine-scented air filling the crisp atmosphere. Practical considerations include sturdy footwear to negotiate the uneven ridgeline approach and bringing along ample water, especially in summer, as the area can dry quickly under daytime heat. The top rope setup with nuts simplifies the logistics but still demands attention to secure placements and double-checking before committing to the line.

Safety is always paramount on routes like this. The downclimb through the gully requires firm footing; loose rock is minimal but vigilance is wise on the descent to avoid scrape hazards or missteps. Though short, the route’s exposure is tangible, and careful gear selection remains essential to mitigate risk. Crack in Groove is not a climb to rush—it rewards climbers who respect its measured pace and engage with both its physical and mental rhythm. Whether you’re honing crack technique or craving a moderately graded adventure with dependable protection, this route embodies a straightforward, solid climb with a Colorado flavor that lingers long after the rope is packed away.

Climber Safety

The gully used for descending can have loose gravel patches; proceed cautiously when downclimbing. Also, verify all nut placements for solid security before climbing, as there are no fixed anchors along the route.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the ridgeline trail from the parking area for the most direct access.

Use the nearby gully north of the route for a safer downclimb instead of rappelling.

Pack enough water and wear sturdy shoes to handle the rocky approach terrain.

Aim for morning or late afternoon to avoid peak sun exposure on the northeast face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Crack in Groove offers a moderately challenging experience that feels fair to slighty soft for climbers comfortable with crack techniques. Its single pitch keeps the focus tight, with a consistent crux that rewards clean hand jams and precise footwork. Compared to nearby S-Crack, it’s a touch more approachable but still demands attention to gear placement for a safe ascent.

Gear Requirements

A set of nuts is necessary for both protection and establishing a secure top rope anchor. Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on smaller sizes for tricky placements in the crack.

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Tags

crack climb
single pitch
traditional gear
beginner friendly
Front Range