"Cow Patty Crack condenses the essence of classic trad climbing into a swift 30-foot pitch. With technical cracks and a striking roof traverse, it challenges climbers to deliver precise gear placements while enjoying the steady solid granite of Boulder Canyon."
Cow Patty Crack offers a concise yet engaging trad climbing experience on the rugged walls of Mine Hole Crag, situated in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. This brief 30-foot route demands focused effort, threading a right-facing corner before navigating a sharp roof and a committing traverse left along a clean horizontal crack. The rock feels solid beneath your fingers, with texture that offers dependable holds and encouraging friction—a playground for climbers who appreciate technical moves without the burden of length. The route begins on the right side of the crag, approached by a short uphill hike, where the surrounding granite holds the echo of whispered winds rushing through the canyon. As you climb, the corner creates a natural channel with a subtle play of shadow and sunlight that shifts with the day’s progression, highlighting the crack’s features and inviting precise gear placements. Protection calls for finger to hand-sized cams, typically green Alien sizes up to a #2 Camalot, making it a suitable challenge for trad climbers comfortable with gear selection and placement on active cracks. The chain anchor is well-fixed and easily accessible, offering a reassuring finish after the physical cruxes—one midway up the corner and the other during the horizontal traverse. Cow Patty Crack, while short, packs a gratifying punch in technique and rock quality, perfect for a quick, commitment-filled climb that complements longer adventures in Boulder’s extensive granite walls. For those scouting routes that fit within a morning session or seeking a warm-up with substance, this climb stands out as a gem with clear beta and solid protection in a captivating natural setting.
Watch for the roof section’s exposure—make sure your gear is well-placed before committing to the traverse. The rock quality is generally solid but expect occasional loose flakes near the start. Approach with caution on the uphill trail, particularly when wet or icy.
Access the route by hiking uphill along the right side of the crag, keeping an eye out for the starting corner crack.
Bring a range of cams in finger to hand sizes; the active crack demands solid placements.
Plan to climb during mid-morning or afternoon for balanced light conditions on the wall.
Be prepared for a short but technical climb with two distinct cruxes: the corner and the horizontal traverse.
Required protection spans from finger-sized to hand-sized gear, with green Alien cams through to #2 Camalots recommended. Anchors are fixed two-bolt chains atop.
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