HomeClimbingCourtisan du Mauvais Temps

Courtisan du Mauvais Temps: A Bold Trad Climb Above Lac Long

Quebec City, Canada
trad
single-pitch
glue-ins
lake views
granite
northern climb
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Courtisan du Mauvais Temps
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Courtisan du Mauvais Temps challenges trad climbers with a brisk, single-pitch lead atop a commanding ledge in Quebec’s Charlevoix region. Experience sharp moves on solid granite with sweeping views of Lac Long below."

Courtisan du Mauvais Temps: A Bold Trad Climb Above Lac Long

Courtisan du Mauvais Temps offers an assertive and engaging single-pitch climb set along the rugged cliffs of Quebec’s Charlevoix region. Beginning on the sharp edge of a broad ledge high above Lac Long, this 100-foot route demands focus and solid technique as you step onto the rock where Tour de Siège also starts. The climb immediately reveals commanding views of the surrounding northern wilderness, where the cool air carries the scent of pine and the distant lake glimmers with changing light. This trad line blends pockets of fixed gear with sections requiring confident natural protection placements, challenging climbers to balance commitment with careful gear management.

The initial moves call for a stick clip to safely negotiate the first two glue-in bolts before transitioning into natural cracks and edges. The rock texture is generally sound but demands precise footwork and steady hands, especially given the route’s 5.11d rating. This climb serves as a strong test for those looking to push their trad skills in a relatively remote northern Canadian setting.

Approach is straightforward yet immersive, with the wide ledge offering a moment to recalibrate as the forested terrain below rustles softly with the breeze. The atmosphere is alive with the interplay of light and shadow across the granite face, while the crisp air cuts through any tension. Expect moderate exposure, with the cliffs shading the route unevenly throughout the day—morning light offers warmth, but afternoon shade keeps the rock cool and grippy.

This climb’s location in the Charlevoix region means adventurers should come well-prepared with solid footwear, ample water, and layered clothing suited to variable weather conditions. The setting encourages awareness of the environment’s influence—the rock, air, and distant rhythms of nature all play a role in shaping the ascent.

With just one pitch, Courtisan du Mauvais Temps packs intensity into a brief but memorable experience. For climbers aiming to sharpen trad tactics, this route tests gear judgment and movement efficiency against a backdrop of serene northern wilderness. The descent is straightforward but demands careful attention, marked by simple downclimb options rather than technical rappels, underscoring the need to plan your exit with safety in mind.

Whether you’re drawn by the sheer granite, the challenge of the grade, or the allure of the northern wild, this climb is both a rite of passage and a compelling call to embrace Quebec’s less-traveled edges. It’s a route that invites respect, preparation, and a readiness to engage fully with every hold and placement.

Climber Safety

Climbers should exercise caution on the initial section where glue-in bolts are spaced; improper clipping can lead to runouts. The natural gear sections require meticulous placements, so double-check all pro. Weather can change rapidly, so carrying extra layers is advisable. The descent involves downclimbing loose rock sections and demands attention to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Bring a stick clip to safely reach the first two fixed bolts.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to optimize foot placements on smooth granite.

Avoid climbing late in the day to prevent chasing shade that cools the rock unevenly.

Pack layered clothing to adapt to sudden temperature shifts common in the region.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11d grade on Courtisan du Mauvais Temps is a true test of technique and poise, with the initial fixed bolts easing entry before a sustained crux that demands precise gear placement and deliberate movement. While the grade feels stiff, it’s approachable for those confident with blue-to-purple cam sizes and foot smearing on granite. Compared to nearby routes like Tour de Siège, it demands more focused trad skills rather than pure athleticism.

Gear Requirements

Start with a stick clip on the two glue-in bolts before transitioning to natural protection. Expect the need for solid trad gear focusing on small to medium cams and nuts for secure placements.

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Tags

trad
single-pitch
glue-ins
lake views
granite
northern climb