HomeClimbingCount on Your Fingers

Count on Your Fingers: A Bold Traditional Climb in Joshua Tree’s Thin Wall

Twentynine Palms, California USA
finger crack
desert
single pitch
trad gear
Joshua Tree
sunny exposure
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Count on Your Fingers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Count on Your Fingers presents a focused, single-pitch challenge on Joshua Tree’s Thin Wall. This traditional climb combines finger-crack finesse with a pragmatic approach, ideal for those ready to test technical skill in the stark desert landscape."

Count on Your Fingers: A Bold Traditional Climb in Joshua Tree’s Thin Wall

Count on Your Fingers challenges climbers with a compact yet rewarding single-pitch adventure carved into Joshua Tree’s Thin Wall—a standout feature within the rugged expanse of Real Hidden Valley. This 50-foot route stakes its claim just left of the imposing right-facing corner that bisects the wall, making it a discreet but distinct option for those seeking traditional climbing with a practical twist. The rock here feels firm beneath your hands, offering a gripping variety of edges and cracks that demand precise finger strength and a clear head. The setting is as raw as the route itself: a southwest-facing rock face that catches the morning light, warming the stone and beckoning climbers to start early before the desert heat peaks. The atmosphere is honest—no fluff, just rock, sky, and the patient challenge of finding secure placements in the small cracks and pockets.

Approach is straightforward but requires a mindful eye. Heading to the Thin Wall’s east side, climbers orient themselves by the large corner midpoint landmark, then slide eyes to the right edge of the left half where the route anchors. The trail is loose and rocky but manageable in about 10 minutes from the nearby established trails of Real Hidden Valley, making it an accessible destination for a half-day outing or a quality climb to punch near your main camp.

Protection is standard traditional fare: a light rack featuring nuts and cams to fit narrow cracks, especially smaller-sized cams to lock into the tighter sections where placements have a bit more bite. Fixed bolts don’t line this climb, so route familiarity and gear confidence are essential here.

Rating stands at 5.9 traditionally, though many locals suggest it leans toward a fair 5.8, reflecting the Thin Wall’s reputation for slightly inflated grades. The moves demand clean footwork and steady balance, with a crux sequence that rewards steady breathing and finger control rather than brute power. The rock’s grain provides enough texture to prevent slips but asks for focused placement and trust in your gear, especially on steeper sections where the holds thin out.

The route’s desert surroundings deliver more than just physical challenge. The dry air carries the sound of the occasional desert breeze rattling through nearby shrubs, and distant birdcalls punctuate the silence. The rock itself seems to push back subtly, daring you to link precise moves to reach the anchor. As midday approaches, the sun climbs higher, and shade from the wall’s shape ebbs, making early starts the ideal window. Late afternoons cool down again, but be mindful of descending—or resting—once the sun’s position changes.

Descent calls for a safe rappel down the climb line with a double rope setup or a clean walk-off toward the base if you’re confident navigating the scree and uneven ground. Local climbers highlight careful gear checks in the descent, as some loose stones near the base could pose slipping hazards.

Count on Your Fingers isn’t about flamboyance or flash; it’s a straightforward test of fundamentals on quality rock in one of California’s iconic desert parks. Perfect for climbers wanting a taste of Thin Wall’s classic style without committing to a multi-pitch grind, it offers a crisp meeting of adventure and practicality beneath the wide Joshua Tree sky.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rocks near the base and maintain vigilance when placing gear on less obvious cracks. The desert environment means rapid temperature changes—hydrate well and be cautious of heat exposure midday.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade and cooler temps on the wall.

Focus on secure gear placements—there are no bolts, so trusting your protection is essential.

Use steady footwork on the textured rock; slipping is the biggest risk on the steeper sections.

Check footing carefully on the descent; loose scree can be tricky near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated a traditional 5.9, this route feels more like a solid 5.8 to many climbers familiar with the Thin Wall’s grading quirks. The technical crux demands precise finger placements and balance, rather than sustained brute effort, making it a manageable yet engaging test for climbers stepping up to desert trad routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard light rack geared towards trad placements—nuts and a good selection of small to medium cams are key. The cracks favor precision over power, so ensure your gear fits narrower fissures well.

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Tags

finger crack
desert
single pitch
trad gear
Joshua Tree
sunny exposure