"Cornflakes lays out a single, 65-foot pitch of varied trad climbing just beside the iconic Lieback Flake in The Smoke Bluffs. Perfect for those wanting a measured challenge with solid protection and a quick walk off, this climb balances technical moves with a straightforward approach."
Cornflakes offers a straightforward, approachable climb tucked just to the right of the imposing Lieback Flake in The Smoke Bluffs area. This single-pitch trad route stretches 65 feet across a fragmented wall where blocks and flakes create a playful sequence. It’s an ideal choice for climbers seeking to test their footwork and crack skills without committing to a lengthy route. The rock feels solid beneath your hands, and the varied terrain invites you to read each move carefully as you navigate upward. The climb rewards you with a subtle challenge that leans on technical finesse over brute strength, making it suitable for those stepping into trad for the first time or anyone hungry for a relaxed but engaging ascent.
As you approach, the forest floor gives way to sharp granite, its textured surface offering confident friction. Pine needles scatter intermittently across the trail, releasing a fresh, earthy scent in the still air. The nearby mountains frame the southern horizon, their outlines softened by the occasional lingering mist that refuses to lift early in the morning. Expect a measured rhythm here—the rock calls for attentive placement and steady balance. Standard rack gear is sufficient, though doubles in small to medium cams may come in handy to safely protect the variadas flared cracks and thin seams.
Anchoring is straightforward with a reliable two-bolt anchor at the top, and the descent is as intuitive as the climb itself: follow the trail left of the anchor for a quick, ten-minute walk off back to the main staging area. The Smoke Bluffs, widely regarded within the British Columbia climbing community, offer access through well-maintained trails that respect the site’s natural contours. Expect light foot traffic on weekdays, with weekends bringing a more lively atmosphere as locals and visitors converge for some of the best trad climbing in the region.
To prepare for this climb, ensure your rack has a solid range of cams up to the medium sizes and a full set of nuts. Footwear with a stiff sole and gripping rubber will help on the subtle edges while your fingers lock into the delicate flakes and jammed blocks. Hydration is key—although the climb is short, the approach and descent through forest paths can warm you quickly, especially in summer months.
Cornflakes provides a grounded climbing experience—free from unnecessary fluff—with plenty of opportunities to read the rock and feel connected to the granite’s pulse. It’s perfect for a sunny afternoon when you want to sharpen your trad skills within the inspiring setting of The Smoke Bluffs.
Watch for loose blocks near the base; while the rock is generally solid, some scattered debris can shift underfoot. Always double-check placements, especially on the flake sections, and be cautious during descent as the trail is narrow and can be slippery in wet conditions.
Approach via well-maintained trails leading to the base; expect about 10 minutes walking from main parking.
Bring a rack emphasizing small to medium cams and nuts for varied crack protection.
Wear shoes with firm soles to maximize edging on subtle flakes and edges.
Start early to avoid increasing foot traffic and potential heat buildup on the granite.
Standard rack recommended with emphasis on small to medium cams; two bolt anchor secure at top; quick walk off trail to left of the anchors.
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