"Cornered carves a clean, 75-foot slab line just left of KeeMoSabe on Scout Rock’s South Fork. This solid 5.9 sport route invites climbers into crisp moves culminating at a tricky clipping roof and a high, clear anchor."
Cornered stands as a straightforward yet satisfying single-pitch sport climb etched into the textured slab of Scout Rock, nestled in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This 75-foot route invites climbers to engage with clean, sound rock that offers just enough friction to keep each move deliberate and controlled. Beginning on a gently angled slab, the climb gradually steers to a commanding corner left of the more popular KeeMoSabe route, giving you a fresh line with less traffic and a quiet, focused experience.
From the ground, you’ll find the lower section welcoming, a calm warm-up before the climb demands attention. The progression leads toward a striking roof feature perched overhead, where the anchor hangs high to allow an uncomplicated rope drop. The challenge here lies in the precision needed when clipping draws—there are no direct holds near the bolt for clipping, so the route requires a calculated reach to connect with the draw nestled under the roof. Once clipped, the anchor provides a safe and clear finish.
The rock quality is solid throughout, offering dependable edges and clean surfaces that reward thoughtful foot placement and steady balance. While the grade 5.9 suggests moderate difficulty, the route demands careful body positioning and composure especially near the roof section.
Approaching Cornered is accessible via the South Fork trailhead, a well-maintained path leading into the vibrant St. Vrain Canyons area. Expect a short, manageable hike with a mix of forest shade and open views that set the mood for a day on the rock. Ideal climbing conditions emerge in spring and fall, when cooler temperatures help maintain grip and comfort. Summers tend to bring intense sun on the slabs, requiring early starts or a water supply ample enough to stay hydrated.
Gear-wise, ten quickdraws will see you through the route comfortably, along with standard gear for clipping the double-bolt anchor at the top. The protection is placed thoughtfully, relying on bolts throughout, eliminating the need for traditional gear. The anchor sits high to facilitate rope management and ensure an efficient rappel or lowered descent.
Cornered offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging sport climb where technical care meets approachable grade. It’s a rewarding choice for those looking to sharpen slab skills and enjoy a quiet moment above the canyon’s rugged contours.
The high anchor above the roof demands attention during clipping and descent. Be sure your rope and rappel setup are secure as the drop is clear but exposed. Keep an eye on weather—it can change swiftly in this canyon, affecting rock friction.
Start early to avoid intense sun on the slab during summer afternoons.
Bring plenty of water—the trail and climb can quickly dry you out, especially in warmer months.
Pay close attention when clipping at the roof; reach deliberately because holds are scarce near the draws.
Check rope length and rappel setup beforehand; the high anchor requires clean rope management.
Ten quickdraws will cover all bolts on this route. The double-bolt anchor at the top requires gear for clipping your rappel or lowering. No additional protection is needed, as the route is fully bolted.
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