Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingCorner the Market, Lose the Planet

Corner the Market, Lose the Planet

Lone Pine, California United States
trad
loose rock
crumbly
single pitch
desert climbing
Alabama Hills
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Corner the Market, Lose the Planet
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Corner the Market, Lose the Planet is a gritty, single-pitch trad climb in California’s Alabama Hills. Expect loose, crumbly rock and a thin, shallow crack that demands precise footwork and calm resolve against ever-shifting edges."

Corner the Market, Lose the Planet

Corner the Market, Lose the Planet stands as a test of grit and patience in the rugged Alabama Hills near Lone Pine, California. At first glance, the climb’s modest 5.8 PG13 rating and single pitch might suggest a straightforward trad route, but the reality quickly unmasks a challenge edged with loose rock and unexpected trickery. The approach traces a short scramble through the familiar dusty trails of Earthday and Munge Domes, where the air carries the dry heat of eastern Sierra summers and the occasional whisper of desert winds brushing past hardy pines.

Once you arrive at the base, the route stares back with an unassuming corner, but its true nature reveals itself as you begin the ascent. Climbers must first negotiate a boulder problem above a single bolt, gripping precarious, flaky holds that feel as unstable as a gambler’s luck. What appears promising from below—the hand crack corner—morphs into a thin, shallow slot that demands precision and commitment. This grainy slot refuses generous holds; instead, it challenges fingers to find purchase on its flaring edges while the rock crumbles in protest with every move.

The climb encourages a measured patience: whispers of loose shards and micromovements keep you alert. Midway, you’ll veer right into face moves that increase the route’s mental edge, relying heavily on friction over solid jugs. The bolt placed about two-thirds up the route offers a moment of safety—and relief—before the final push onto lower-angled terrain. A fixed anchor waits at the top, welcoming belayers to a vantage point overlooking the dry sprawl of the Alabama Hills below.

This route isn’t for those seeking polished glory or untroubled holds. Instead, it delivers a raw experience where the mountain pushes back, urging climbers to hone their choss inspection skills and protect themselves accordingly. The protection calls for 2-inch trad gear alongside two bolts, demanding attention on placements as looseness rules the rock quality. Your belayer will want to stand off to the side, mindful of the inevitable cascade of shattered stone that accompanies less-than-perfect moves.

The setting itself rewards the effort, with expansive views of Sierra Eastside’s harsh beauty stretching off into the horizon as the sun drops toward the western peaks. Planning your ascent for cooler morning hours helps avoid the sun-drenched heat and minimizes the risk of slippery dust accumulation. Whether you're returning to clean holds over time or embracing the disorder on an unkempt face, Corner the Market presents a climbing story centered on persistence, vigilance, and an appreciation for the rawness of this unique rock.

Bring sturdy shoes with excellent edging capabilities and brush gear to clear holds when possible. Staying hydrated is vital here; the sparse shade and arid environment leave little reprieve during summer climbs. The route’s sharp personality rewards thorough preparation and respect for its volatile rock, making it a must-try for those ready to engage with one of California’s more audacious trad challenges.

Climber Safety

Expect falling debris throughout the climb as the rock is notoriously unstable; helmets are a must, and belayers should keep a safe distance. The fragile flakes and decomposed sections require careful gear placements to avoid ripping protection.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early in the morning to avoid afternoon heat and loose dust.

Belayers should stand off to the side to avoid falling rock debris.

Brush holds gently to improve friction but beware of fragile flakes.

Double-check all gear placements given the rock’s unstable nature.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating here feels on the softer side but is deceptive due to the poor rock quality and the route’s loose nature. The crux lies in trusting marginal holds and managing protection on flaky edges, making it feel more mentally demanding than your average 5.8 climb. Climbers familiar with other Alabama Hills routes will recognize the messy rock style but find this route stands out for its sustained tenuous moves.

Gear Requirements

Requires trad gear up to 2 inches plus 2 bolts; fixed anchor at the top. Expect tricky placements due to loose flakes and crumbly rock sections.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Corner the Market, Lose the Planet and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
loose rock
crumbly
single pitch
desert climbing
Alabama Hills