HomeClimbingCool Cliff 170

Cool Cliff 170: A Raw Yosemite Trad Challenge

Yosemite Valley, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
dirty rock
brush required
river canyon
remote
3-pitch
bolted anchors
vegetated
long approach
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Cool Cliff 170
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cool Cliff 170 delivers a gritty Yosemite trad experience where raw rock and overgrown holds merge into a demanding three-pitch adventure. Expect solid protection with a full rack, careful brushwork, and a challenging approach that rewards grit and patience."

Cool Cliff 170: A Raw Yosemite Trad Challenge

Cool Cliff 170 stands apart in Yosemite Valley’s Lower Merced River Canyon as an unrefined climb that dares the bold and patient. Far from the polished sport routes drawing crowds nearby, this traditional line demands a gritty commitment. The rock is unforgiving, often dirty and vegetated, which amplifies the primal feel of each move. Starting options split the route’s character: the right start, though once messy, now sheds loose debris to reveal solid holds leading into a long pitch that finishes at fresh 3/8" bolts equipped with chains—offering relief and security after the climb’s tough grunt. The left start carries you through a gentler opening, but don’t be fooled. Vegetation cloaks the rock, and the quality degrades beneath a small roof, forcing climbers to push beyond a precarious three-pin anchor in questionable stone to reach the same bolted station as the right variation.

Protection on this route leans on a full rack ranging from micro cams up to a #6 Camalot, with placements requiring discernment due to scattered poor rock patches. Brushwork is essential—clearing holds can turn a nervy section into a climbable one. This isn’t a climb to rush or approach lightly; it rewards climbers who embrace its raw edges and commit to steady, precise protection.

The approach to Cool Cliff 170 echoes the route’s rugged nature. Found deep within Yosemite’s revered climbing territory, access follows established trails but demands an eye on footing and route-finding as the slab rises above the winding river below. The setting provides a constant natural soundtrack—the river’s flow daring you onward—and the canyon walls rising like ancient guardians. Climbers frequently feel the solitude here; few come specifically for such a rough-hewn challenge, preserving the experience’s solitude and authenticity.

Timing your ascent matters. The wall catches morning light, warming the rock early but slipping into shade by afternoon, making spring and fall optimal for steadier temperatures and less exposure to baking sun. Descent is straightforward but requires caution—rappelling from fixed chains is the cleanest exit, with attention paid to gear setup and rope management.

Cool Cliff 170 isn’t for climbers chasing pristine pitches or easy sends. It’s a call to those who value the adventure woven into every gritty hold and uncertain placement. For those ready to engage with Yosemite’s more primal face, it offers a deeply satisfying blend of tradition, challenge, and the timeless rhythm of stone and sky.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution around the vegetated roof on the left start—rock quality there is questionable, and the three-pin anchor beneath is not reliable. Always clip beyond this section to the bolted chains. Watch for loose rock throughout, and check placements diligently.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start on the right side for better rock quality and cleaner climbing.

Carry a full trad rack, emphasizing larger cams for the upper pitches.

Bring a small brush to clean difficult holds and improve friction.

Plan your climb for spring or fall to avoid afternoon shade and summer heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The route is rated 5.9, but the rating masks the added challenge of poor rock sections and vegetated holds which can increase the difficulty feel. The cruxes require precise footwork and confidence in protection placement. Compared to other Yosemite 5.9 trad routes, Cool Cliff 170 leans into a rawer, more adventurous style rather than polished technicality.

Gear Requirements

Bring micro cams through to #6 Camalot for thorough protection, plus a climbing brush to clear holds; essential given the route’s vegetated and dirty conditions.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
dirty rock
brush required
river canyon
remote
3-pitch
bolted anchors
vegetated
long approach