Set on the sharp granite faces of Loggerhead Buttress within the iconic Yosemite Valley, Conquest of the Stud Monkey offers a concentrated, technical trad experience for climbers seeking a punchy challenge that balances movement finesse with bold protection decisions. The climb begins on a low-angle fist crack beneath a large granite block crowned by a small tree, inviting you into Yosemite’s raw vertical playground immediately. The approach to the first ledge slides you seamlessly into the climb’s rhythm, where solid stances punctuate each move and invite moments to catch your breath. Transitioning right around the block, you navigate through precise footwork to a distinct crack switch — a pivotal section where technique and focus sharpen.

Beyond this, the route carves a water groove, which dares you upward with sparse protection over its next 20 or so feet. Here, the absence of gear placements nudges you into trusting your movement and concentrating on dry edges and features that stand firm beneath your fingers. The groove guards a delicate mantel move near the anchors, testing your balance and body awareness as you commit to the final push.

Protection calls for a range up to 3.5 inches, with a possible 4-inch cam recommended but optional. This gear strategy ensures you’re prepared for the intermittent placements, especially within the groove where protection thins out. Two bolt anchors equipped with ASCA rap rings provide a reliable finish, and a 70-meter rope comfortably gets you back to the ground, so plan your rope management accordingly.

Loggerhead Buttress is a granite realm that demands attentive climbing, where every hold counts and the rock’s character shifts subtly along the face. The exposure feels immediate yet manageable on this single-pitch, making it a perfect expedition for climbers ready to sharpen crack skills without committing to multi-pitch complexities. The route sits quietly on the north side of the valley, granting a mix of shade and sunlight throughout the day, with the morning offering the best conditions to avoid midday heat or potential afternoon rockfall.

Approach access is straightforward, coming from the El Cap Picnic Area. The trail is well punctuated and suitable for carrying a pack comfortably. Allow around 20 minutes from the parking area to reach the base, weaving through classic Yosemite pine and fir, the scent of fresh forest mixing with that unmistakable granite dust.

For those seeking a direct connection to Yosemite’s traditional crack climbing legacy, Conquest of the Stud Monkey delivers precise, rewarding moves and a taste of the park’s vast vertical heritage—clean, crisp, and demanding just enough to keep your mind and body fully engaged.