"Concrete Blonde is a focused trad climb on Columbus Wall that tests your crack skills on solid Nova Scotia granite. With a straightforward 60-foot pitch and practical descent options, it’s an ideal route for trad climbers looking for a reliable but unpretentious challenge."
Concrete Blonde offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to trad climbing on the rugged Columbus Wall in Nova Scotia. This single-pitch climb, stretching 60 feet, begins just below the iconic Arch Wall, where the crack immediately catches your eye. As you step off the ledge, the crack invites you to finger-lock and jam your way up, with solid placements available throughout. The climb demands attention as you navigate a corner past loose blocks to reach the next ledge, where a sturdy tree waits to anchor your ropes. This tree, though reliable, sits somewhat recessed, making rappels from it a careful affair. To ease your descent, you have two practical options: rappel down to JP’s Arete anchor and use fixed rings there or bypass rappelling altogether by hiking around the back of the ledge, moving past Desperado on Upper Tier. Both choices highlight the mixed nature of this area — a blend of technical climbing and clever route-finding.
The rock here holds firm, with typical Nova Scotia granite that rewards precise footwork and controlled breathing. The route's 5.9 rating sits well with its position as a moderate challenge, rewarding climbers familiar with traditional protection and hand jams. Gear up with a standard rack, including cams up to a #2 Camalot, and expect to place protection confidently in the crack and corners. This climb suits those seeking an authentic leading experience without overwhelming complexity, a perfect day outing close to urban centers.
Access is straightforward from the nearby town of Halifax, with the area located roughly 45 minutes north on well-maintained trails. The approach takes you through open forest patches and rugged ledges, setting the mood well before the first pitch. The Columbus Wall, part of a larger climbing locus in Nova Scotia, displays expansive views across the Atlantic coastline, with the ocean breeze adding fresh energy to your ascent. Early morning starts are ideal to catch cool air before midday warmth, especially in summer months when the sun turns the exposed faces hot to the touch.
Concrete Blonde invites both traditional climbers and aspiring leaders to experience Nova Scotia’s climbing charm. It’s a route that encourages solid technique, smart gear choices, and an embrace of the outdoors’ independent spirit. Whether you’re prepping for longer adventures or just after a well-balanced climb with practical descent options, this line delivers both challenge and clarity in spades.
Loose blocks linger around the corner section—handle placements cautiously to avoid dislodging debris. The tree anchor’s position requires planning for rope retrieval if rappelling. Always double-check gear placements since the route lacks fixed bolts beyond anchor points.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the granite face.
Bring tape for finger protection on the tight crack sections.
Consider rappelling to JP's Arete anchor for an easier descent.
If comfortable, walk off by passing Desperado on Upper Tier for a more relaxed return.
Bring a standard trad rack including cams up to #2 Camalot. The crack accepts gear placements well, but the corner requires careful protection to avoid loose blocks.
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