Conan's Gonads stands as a distinctive one-pitch trad climb that anchors the beginning of the renowned Wolf's Tooth adventure, located in the heart of Lumpy Ridge near Estes Park Valley, Colorado. The route clings to the quiet west face of the Lower Twin Owls, a massive buttress that can easily be confused with the towering Twin Owls when glimpsed from the parking area. This climb offers a dedicated challenge anchored by a long, slightly diagonal hand crack that rises about 20 feet beneath a noticeable roof section—this crack demands sustained commitment at 5.9, rewarding climbers with direct exposure and a feeling of steady upward drive.

Access starts along the Gem Lake trail, but after only a short walk of 50 feet, a marked spur veers left toward the climb; the approach quickly fades, forcing a careful bushwhack and scramble up the steep slope. This initial effort leads to the base of the hidden west-facing wall, where the crack’s roof-capped entrance calls out to climbers ready to test their skill on solid granite. Expect a physical hand jam sequence, blending balance and power while reading the subtle shifts in the crack’s width.

Upon topping out, the belay sets you directly beneath the iconic Wolf's Tooth pinnacle—a perfect launching point if you intend to continue your route or enjoy a moment absorbing the rugged scene. Descending involves options: a steep trail descends east of the Twin Owls, offering a straightforward if gritty way down, but the true seasoned climber might push onward, linking with Wolf's Tooth or other classic routes, descending west from the Owls. This west-side return, however, is less straightforward and can be confusing, with tricky scrambling and potential for getting cliffed, so caution is paramount.

Protection calls for a standard trad rack, extending up to a #4 Friend, and climbers will appreciate bringing additional hand-sized cams to secure tricky spots along the sustained crack. The rock quality is consistently solid, but its roofed section can challenge placements, making solid pro skills essential.

Lower Twin Owls offers a wild, less-traveled vibe compared to the better-known Upper Owls, with rugged granite faces and sweeping views of the Estes Park Valley beckoning adventure seekers. This climb sits within a popular climbing area famed for its blend of technical routes and scenic grandeur. Its west-facing wall catches the afternoon sun, making early to mid-day climbs ideal during the warmer months to avoid overheating, while spring and fall provide cooler, more comfortable conditions.

Prepare for a steep approach and unpredictable trail conditions by wearing sturdy footwear and carrying sufficient water. Weather can shift quickly in these alpine environs, so layering is wise. Getting down the East Side scramble to the base is quicker but rougher than the trailhead approach, offering a useful shortcut if descending alone.

Conan's Gonads demands commitment but rewards with direct, hands-on climbing on clean granite, framed by dramatic mountain views and the hum of nature daring you onward. It’s a climb that blends physical stamina with route-finding and traditional gear savvy, perfect for climbers ready to embrace the character and challenges of Lumpy Ridge’s wild granite outcrops.