"Conan cuts a unique path up Black Forest Wall’s steep face, offering climbers a single pitch of gripping layback moves along a left-facing crack. This 5.11d sport climb is a standout at Old Baldy, blending technical challenge with reliable protection and memorable movement."
Carving a bold line up the Black Forest Wall, Conan stands as a compelling single-pitch challenge for sport climbers eager to test their finesse on Ontario's southern crags. This 60-foot ascent follows a left-facing crack system that commands attention with its steady layback moves, drawing climbers into a dance of balance and strength. Unlike many nearby routes, Conan offers a distinct personality — a deliberate rhythm framed by solid rock and a well-protected bolt sequence. The climb’s character is defined by the crack’s call to your hands and the subtle shifts of body weight needed to advance efficiently. While the grade 5.11d sets a serious technical bar, the pure movement here invites climbers to engage mentally as much as physically. The Black Forest Wall rises above wooded slopes, with the crag’s rock surface offering a steady grip underpinned by reliable bolts that inspire confidence without cheapening the experience. Approaching the route involves a short but precise hike through Old Baldy’s accessible network, threading through forest edges where the breeze carries sounds of rustling leaves and calls of distant birds. Whether you aim to polish your technique or savor a memorable lead in a quieter Ontario climbing area, Conan demands smart gear choices and a measured mindset. Plan your ascent with attention to shoe stiffness and finger strength, as the layback sections reward controlled effort over brute force. Timing the climb in cooler morning hours can deepen grip comfort and sharpen focus, making each move feel clear and deliberate. With just one pitch but plenty of character, Conan at Black Forest Wall is an approachable yet stimulating sport climb that delivers solid exposure and a taste of Ontario’s climbing diversity.
Though well bolted, this route features some small ledges and edges where falls can swing the climber; careful clipping and maintaining control during layback moves reduces risk. Also, be cautious of loose rock at the base—brush thoroughly and wear a helmet.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and soften your grip on the rock.
Wear stiff-soled shoes to manage the layback sections with better edging.
Brush off the crack before climbing to ensure better holds.
Double-check your quickdraws and clip technique; some bolts sit slightly out of the main line.
Six solid bolts anchor this route, allowing for well-spaced protection focused around the left-facing crack. Bring quickdraws for a clean clip sequence without worrying about gear placements along the way.
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