Colt 45: Classic Trad Line on Mount Douglas East Face

Welsford, Canada
trad
ledge traverse
pitons
granite
single pitch
moderate
gear placements
Welsford
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Colt 45
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Colt 45 carves a single-pitch trad challenge along Mount Douglas's East Face, balancing sustained corner work with an extended ledge traverse. Ideal for climbers seeking a steady test of gear management and route-finding on solid granite."

Colt 45: Classic Trad Line on Mount Douglas East Face

Colt 45 offers a straightforward yet rewarding trad climb on the East Face of Mount Douglas, presenting a single pitch of sustained movement that blends technical corner work with delicate ledge traversing. From the ground, the route begins by threading a clean corner that leads to an extended ledge system stretching across the face. This ledge invites a deliberate rightward traverse, testing your route-finding patience and offering a chance to settle into the rhythm of the climb. The landscape here is marked by sturdy granite with a textured patina, where each movement demands attention to footholds set amidst the quieter sounds of distant wind and the occasional call of birds shifting overhead.

The traverse eventually meets a ramp marked by fixed pitons — a clear turning point signaling a climb back upward and diagonally right. This section requires confidence in gear placement and an eye for natural line selection, as you negotiate the wall with intermittent bolt protection that offers reassurance without sacrificing the adventure of placing your own gear. Keep in mind that the route is only one pitch, roughly 100 feet of climbing, but that length condenses into a focused, continuous challenge.

Protection consists of a few bolts and a standard trad rack used to complement the fixed pitons, making it accessible for climbers who bring a well-rounded set of cams and nuts. The bolts come as welcome anchors in more vertical stretches while the natural features demand precise lock-offs and smearing shoes to stay balanced on less obvious holds.

The approach to Colt 45 is straightforward once you locate Mount Douglas’s East Face in Welsford, New Brunswick. The nearby town provides essential resources, but the route itself feels remote enough to offer a genuine mountain experience without overbearing crowds. The climb’s face holds a gentle aspect toward the east, catching morning sun and easing into shade by afternoon, making early starts ideal during warmer months.

For gear and safety, climbers should bring a rack geared to small to medium cams and slings to protect the traverse and the ramp. The rock is solid, yet the bolts suggest some sections once demanded regular checks, so stay vigilant. A potential hazard lies in the long traverse: stray too far right past the bolted anchor and you’re off-route, which means additional scrambling or retreating to the last safe anchor.

Descent is by a simple walk-off to the base, but be mindful of loose scree patches near the trail, and keep your attention on marked paths to avoid unplanned bushwhacking. Weather conditions can shift quickly, so pack accordingly and start well-hydrated for the modest yet engaging challenge that Colt 45 provides. This route delivers a classic trad feel: approachable for intermediate trad climbers while still requiring thoughtful navigation and solid gear management.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the traversing ledge; it’s long and exposure increases as you move right. Fixed pitons and bolts aid protection but verify their stability. Approach weather with care, as granite can become slick when wet.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Begin early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and shade on the climb.

Be cautious on the long ledge traverse — overshooting the bolted anchor leads off-route.

Inspect pitons and bolts before trusting them fully; some fixed gear may be aged.

Use sticky-soled shoes for optimal grip on the varied granite textures.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.7, Colt 45 falls on the moderate end of trad climbing. The grade feels fair given the sustained nature of the ledge traversing and technical ramp climb. It’s accessible for climbers solid in trad basics but demands smooth gear transitions and route-reading skills, especially across the ledge where the crux lies in staying on the intended line.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with small to medium cams and nuts, complemented by at least 3 quickdraws for bolt clipping on the upper wall sections.

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Tags

trad
ledge traverse
pitons
granite
single pitch
moderate
gear placements
Welsford