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Colonial Ear Wax: A Sharp and Steady Trad Challenge in Holcomb Valley

Big Bear Lake, California United States
thin crack
trad
single pitch
moderate
San Bernardino
crack climbing
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Colonial Ear Wax
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Colonial Ear Wax carves a single-pitch, crack-focused line on Holcomb Valley’s Claim Jumper Wall, blending technical movement with peaceful seclusion. This trad classic invites climbers to test their crack skills amid the rugged San Bernardino terrain."

Colonial Ear Wax: A Sharp and Steady Trad Challenge in Holcomb Valley

Colonial Ear Wax offers a focused, hands-on trad climb tucked within the rugged formations of Holcomb Valley's Claim Jumper Wall. This single-pitch 60-foot route demands precise footwork and confident crack skills, starting with a thin, right-slanting crack that tests your finesse before easing into a wider, more comfortable crack system. The climb’s character is defined by the transition between narrow and broader crack features, carving a subtle but technical line that appeals to climbers looking for a straightforward yet engaging climb off the beaten path. The surrounding rock bears the San Bernardino Mountains’ raw edge—clean but weathered, with sharp angles that catch both your attention and your gear. Protection calls for a mix of small to mid-sized cams up to three inches, perfectly suited for the crack's narrowing and widening throes. Near the top, a gear belay is accessible, though many choose to traverse right toward the established anchors on the adjacent Bum Steer route for a secure top-out. The approach features a short but gritty hike, rewarding climbers with a quieter slice of Big Bear Lake’s climbing scene, set against a backdrop of pine-scented air and stark rocky cliffs. Light filters steadily onto the wall through the morning and early afternoon, making fall and spring ideal seasons to avoid scorching sun or winter’s chill. This route strikes a balance between practical challenge and scenic solitude, appealing to trad climbers ready to sharpen crack technique in a lesser-traveled corner of California’s mountain climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the crux crack as placements can be shallow; ensure cams are seated firmly. The approach trail includes loose rock sections—mind your step to avoid slips. The gear belay is solid but traversing to Bum Steer's anchors requires careful footing near ledges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb for morning or early afternoon to avoid harsh midday sun.

Carry a standard trad rack with emphasis on smaller cams up to 3 inches.

The approach involves a rugged trail—sturdy footwear and water are recommended.

After the climb, consider exploring nearby routes for a full day in Holcomb Valley.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8, Colonial Ear Wax offers a rating that’s comfortable yet engaging. The initial thin right-slanting crack presents the route’s crux, requiring solid finger jams and precise foot placement. The grade feels fair and well-matched to the technical demands, with the wider crack above providing a welcome relief. Climbers familiar with nearby trad routes like Bum Steer will find a similar level of challenge but with a more focused crack experience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of cams including small sizes tapering up to 3 inches to protect the thin to moderate crack sections. The gear belay anchors are solid but some climbers prefer traversing right to the established fixed anchors on Bum Steer for added security.

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Tags

thin crack
trad
single pitch
moderate
San Bernardino
crack climbing