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Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb in Colorado

Denver, Colorado United States
arete
sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
Colorado rock
thin crimps
high steps
sunny aspect
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A sharp, focused 5.9 sport climb on a distinctive left arete near Devil's Head, this route blends technical face moves with precise footwork across 90 feet of inviting Colorado rock. Perfect for climbers seeking a punchy single pitch with reliable protection and approachable exposure."

Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete: A Crisp 5.9 Sport Climb in Colorado

Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging pitch on a sharp arete that juts boldly beneath the imposing main wall. Situated in the rugged terrain of Chicken Head Ranch above Devil's Head, this route demands precise footwork and steady hands, playing out along thin crimps that challenge your grip and high steps that test your balance. The climb's face sections between the lower and upper arete provide focused moments requiring attention and control, making it an ideal choice for climbers wanting to sharpen their technique on a moderate 5.9 that doesn’t overwhelm with length.

Approaching the climb, you find yourself in an open landscape marked by scrub pines and stony outcrops, the air crisp with a Colorado chill that sharpens your senses. The rock feels cool to the touch, weathered but solid, its textures inviting you to trust your placements. With eight stainless steel bolts set along the line leading to a secure two-bolt anchor, protection is reliable, allowing for a confident push through the sequence with minimal gear fuss.

Covering a neat 90 feet in a single pitch, the route demands sharp focus rather than endurance, perfect for a quick afternoon ascent if time is limited or a solid warm-up on a longer day. The exposures here are balanced—not overly intimidating but enough to remind you to move deliberately and respect the rock beneath your fingers.

This climb shines in the late morning to early afternoon light when the arete basks in warm sun, drying off any overnight moisture and keeping holds grippy. Because it faces east-southeast, early morning chills can slow you down, so timing your climb after the sun gains height is a wise move.

After topping out, descent follows a straightforward walk-off route that keeps you close to the cliff’s base, with care needed on loose sections peppered with gravel. Given the semi-arid environment, hydration is key—bring water, wear good climbing shoes with sticky rubber, and prepare for the wild open feel of the South Platte region. Whether you're easing into the sport crags or building confidence on technical moves, Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete serves an experience that pairs technical challenge with open-air freedom, wrapped in Colorado’s raw, inviting landscape.

Climber Safety

While bolts provide strong protection, focus on clean clipping and maintaining concentration on thin holds, as a slip could result in swinging near exposed rock edges. Loose gravel along the descent demands careful footing to avoid slips or ankle twists.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start climbing after 10 AM to ensure the arete is warmed by the sun and holds are dry.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to master the thin crimps and high steps.

Hydrate well before the climb as the semi-arid environment can quickly sap your energy.

Use the walk-off path behind the main wall for a quick and safe descent post-climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here feels accurate and approachable; solid for climbers refining their technique on face moves and aretes without overwhelming difficulty. The crux involves delicate foot placements on small edges, making balance and footwork essential. Compared to other local climbs at South Platte, it sits comfortably in the moderate range—more challenging than beginner 5.8 lines, but less intimidating than the grade’s harder cousins.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with eight stainless steel bolts leading to a solid two-bolt anchor, this climb requires no additional gear beyond standard sport climbing equipment. The well-spaced bolts offer confidence without crowding the movement.

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Tags

arete
sport climbing
5.9
single pitch
Colorado rock
thin crimps
high steps
sunny aspect