HomeClimbingCoffin Nail

Coffin Nail at Tahquitz Rock: A Classic West Face Trad Climb

Idyllwild, California USA
hand crack
finger crack
west face
multi-pitch
trad
granite
hand jams
overhang crux
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Coffin Nail
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Coffin Nail presents a classic two-pitch trad climb on Tahquitz Rock’s West Face, blending moderate crack climbing with hands-on protection. With hands and finger cracks leading to a crisp crux overhang, it rewards steady technique and careful gear placements."

Coffin Nail at Tahquitz Rock: A Classic West Face Trad Climb

Coffin Nail carves its path on the West Face of Tahquitz Rock, standing as a solid two-pitch trad climb that tests both technique and endurance without overwhelming force. This route begins by guiding you through easy third-class scrambling that gently wakes the muscles, before sliding into a 5.3 crack that demands attention to footwork and balance. The initial pitch feels like setting an intentional pace, allowing climbers to settle into the rhythm of the rock’s texture — granite that’s clean and receptive, encouraging confident placements.

As you reach the belay, the true character of Coffin Nail unfolds on the longer second pitch. Here, the climbing sharpens with sustained hand jams that pull you upward with a steady strain, speaking directly to the strength in your grip and the precision of your technique. Above this section, the terrain eases into an inviting finger crack, a respite that teases a slight breather before the climb asserts itself with a distinctly committed crux maneuver. An overhang guards the final moves with tangible tension—demanding a decisive move that pushes your limits but rewards with a sense of arrival.

Finishing beneath the approach to Jensen’s Jaunt, Coffin Nail offers a satisfying conclusion. The route’s granite whispers with a cool firmness, the kind that invites confident placements and thoughtful movement. Located just left of Traitor Horn and slightly left of On the Road, this climb offers a focused West Face experience, balancing low-angle scrambling and technical crack climbing.

Planning your ascent means packing a rack with ample hand-sized gear to tackle the tight sections effectively. The rock’s clean features highlight the importance of solid protection placements, especially for runners sized to fit hand jams. Expect moderate exposure with plenty of room to breathe as you move through the dihedral, and while the approach is straightforward, remember that steady footing will conserve your energy for the shifts in effort on the route.

Tahquitz Rock’s West Face commands attention with its enduring granite, attracting climbers who appreciate a climb where rhythm, technique, and gear management intersect. Whether you’re consolidating your crack climbing skills or looking for a steady yet engaging route in an iconic climbing area, Coffin Nail frames the experience with practicality and measured challenge. Gear up with extra hand-sized protection, time your climb for dry conditions, and embrace the granite’s call as the sun moves across its face — morning to mid-afternoon offering the best light and temperature. A solid adventure awaits here, where the rock plays a steady partner and guaranteed footholds reward your effort.

Climber Safety

While the route features clean granite, extra caution is needed on the initial third-class scrambling to avoid loose footing. The overhang crux should be approached with controlled movement to prevent falls. Seasonal dryness is vital—the cracks can become tricky when damp or cold.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday heat on the West Face granite.

Double-check weather—dry rock is essential for safe hand jams and secure placements.

Wear approach shoes with good grip for the scramble leading to pitch one.

Bring a rack heavy on hand and fist-sized cams to handle the crack variations.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.8, Coffin Nail feels approachable but does include some sustained hand climbing that might bump the effort slightly beyond the number. The crux overhang adds a focused challenge that lifts the overall strain from mellow to engaging. Compared to other nearby Tahquitz routes, its grade remains fair and sits comfortably for climbers honing crack techniques without overwhelming physicality.

Gear Requirements

Bring extra hand-sized gear to protect the crux and hand jam sections. The crack widths demand solid placements here, and smaller pieces won’t hold as well.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Coffin Nail and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

hand crack
finger crack
west face
multi-pitch
trad
granite
hand jams
overhang crux