HomeClimbingLa Quinta - Coco Towers

Coco Towers at La Quinta: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

Mexico City, Mexico
offwidth crack
chimney
trad rack
single pitch
5.9
Los Dinamos
Mexico climbing
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
La Quinta - Coco Towers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ascend the iconic Coco Towers in Central Mexico with this 5.9 trad route. Featuring offwidth cracks and a challenging chimney squeeze, this climb rewards steady technique in a striking natural setting."

Coco Towers at La Quinta: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

Carving a route up the striking pillars known locally as the Coco Towers, this single-pitch 5.9 trad climb in Central Mexico offers a balanced blend of technical cracks and chimney moves that test your versatility and endurance. Starting from the base, you follow a pronounced dihedral, feeling the texture of sun-warmed rock beneath your hands as you ascend. The rough granite edges invite steady placements as you make your way toward a small roof guarding the route’s crux. On the roof’s right side, a fist-to-offwidth crack beckons — wide enough to demand patience, but rewarding steady jams and footwork. The climb demands attention here; committing to the wide crack and maintaining calm in tight spaces is essential.

After surmounting the roof, you settle briefly on a small ledge that functions as a natural rest point and vantage spot. From here, a delicate leftward traverse leads to an offwidth crack lined by a chimney slot. The chimney challenges with its narrow squeeze, testing core strength and flexibility as you push upward. The stone exhales with the wind high above, daring you onward toward the summit of one of these granite towers standing watch over the Los Dinamos area.

The surrounding landscape embraces you—a rugged wild expanse framed by towering pines and steep canyon walls. The air is dry and fresh, carrying the scent of earth and distant woodsmoke, sharpening your senses with each move. This climb is more than just a physical journey; it’s a direct conversation with the rock’s unique personality.

Gear up with a traditional rack sized up to a #4 Camalot, doubling from finger to fist sizes to accommodate the often tricky placements that form the backbone of protection here. Nuts and a few long runners smooth your experience, ensuring security through varied crack widths and sharp edges. Planning your approach and descent is straightforward, but timing your climb earlier in the day helps avoid the harsher afternoon sun that beats down on the pillar’s exposed faces.

For those ready to test technical crack climbing without losing sight of the natural setting’s raw appeal, Coco Towers at La Quinta delivers a classic challenge. It invites climbers who value technique and composure, all set against an unforgettable backdrop where the interplay of shadow, stone, and sky keeps you focused and alert. Whether you’re returning for the climb or approaching it for the first time, this route promises a satisfying experience that combines rugged adventure with clear beta for safe and effective ascents.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the small ledge beneath the traverse; it’s narrow and offers limited footing. Check placements carefully in the offwidth cracks — some may feel marginal—even with doubles—due to irregular widths. The chimney requires mindful body positioning to avoid jams that could suddenly dislodge loose rock.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid direct afternoon sun on the exposed pillars.

Ensure your rack includes multiple large cams for secure placements in wide cracks.

Watch for loose rock near the roof section and move deliberately.

Hydrate well; the dry air at altitude can sap energy faster than expected.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9 feels authentic with a distinct offwidth crux at the roof and chimney squeeze near the top, requiring solid crack technique. Its rating is reliable and not overstated, presenting a satisfying test comparable to other regional 5.9 trad lines that blend sustained cracks with tricky sequences.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full traditional rack up to #4 Camalots, ensuring doubles for finger to fist sizes. Packs of nuts and several long runners are essential to protect awkward offwidth and chimney sequences.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of La Quinta - Coco Towers and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

offwidth crack
chimney
trad rack
single pitch
5.9
Los Dinamos
Mexico climbing