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Cochonesse: A Technical Dance on Quebec's Vertical Canvas

Chibougamau, Canada
finger strength
technical moves
crux at third bolt
sport/trad hybrid
single pitch
Length: 45 ft
Type: Sport, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cochonesse
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cochonesse offers a highly technical and focused 45-foot climb on Quebec’s granite, challenging climbers with a decisive crux around the third bolt. This sport and trad hybrid route tests precisely tuned finger strength, rewarding those ready to read the rock and make bold choices."

Cochonesse: A Technical Dance on Quebec's Vertical Canvas

Cochonesse stands as a sharp, precise challenge for climbers seeking a technically demanding sport route in Quebec’s rugged north. This single-pitch climb stretches 45 feet upward on solid rock that demands finger strength and careful footwork, making every hold feel alive beneath your grip. The ascent kicks off with a sequence that quickly tests your focus, building momentum toward a crux positioned at the third bolt — an inflection point where the wall’s character sharpens and attention tightens. Here, the route splits, offering a tactical choice: navigate right or left around this key move, each variant presenting its own subtle challenges. Whether you opt for the right-side traverse to link with the neighboring "Téteux mal chanceux" or continue straight to finish atop the pinnacle known as Imagination, the climb rewards precision and adaptability.

Set against the backdrop of Chibougamau’s granite cliffs, the wall bears the marks of bolted protection, a comforting element that allows climbers to place trust in their gear while pushing their limits on finger locks and delicate smears. The rock itself, often cool to the touch, enhances friction under moderate humidity, a boon during shoulder seasons like late spring or early fall. Planning for dry conditions is crucial, as wet or icy rock would quickly escalate the route’s difficulty beyond its already demanding 5.11c/d rating.

Accessing Cochonesse involves a straightforward approach from the local trail network, with a well-maintained path that winds through sparse boreal forest before arriving at the cliff’s base. Expect about a 15-minute hike from the nearest parking area, where you’ll enter a zone marked by quiet solitude and panoramic views of the Abitibi-Temiscamingue region.

For climbers preparing for Cochonesse, focus on finger strength training and precise foot placement, as the route’s subtle holds necessitate controlled, deliberate movement. Wearing shoes with a snug fit and sensitive edging capabilities will maximize your grip. Approach the crux with calm, weighing your options to pick either the right or left sequence based on your strengths. Hydration remains key when climbing in northern Quebec’s variable climate, and a lightweight windbreaker can shield you from sudden chill as the wind tests your resolve on exposed ledges.

Cochonesse’s blend of bold climbing and manageable approach creates an accessible yet rewarding experience for advanced climbers hungry for a route that balances finesse with commitment. It’s a climb where nature’s stoic presence surveys your efforts, inviting you to read the rock carefully and move with intention. Whether you seek the thrill of a tough sport climb or the joy of linking to nearby routes, Cochonesse offers an engaging slice of Quebec’s vertical world.

Climber Safety

Precision is crucial on this climb, as holds are small and protection bolts are spaced mostly around the crux. Climbers should double-check anchor integrity before committing and watch for potentially slick rock in damp conditions.

Route Details

TypeSport, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Scout the crux carefully and decide early on your preferred right or left line.

Wear highly sensitive climbing shoes to maximize foothold precision.

Aim for dry weather—wet rock becomes dangerously slick here.

Bring a light windbreaker for exposed sections near the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11c/d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.11c/d grade here fairly reflects the route's sharp demands on fingerlock technique and mental precision. While the grade feels solid and consistent, the crux move at the third bolt nudges difficulty upward, requiring climbers to commit confidently. Compared with other Quebec cliffs, Cochonesse rewards climbers who favor finesse over brute force.

Gear Requirements

Bolted protection dominates this route, providing a reliable safety net for climbers to push their limits on small holds. Expect fixed anchors and quickdraws, making it essential to bring a standard sport climbing rack and a few trad pieces for potential gear placements.

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Tags

finger strength
technical moves
crux at third bolt
sport/trad hybrid
single pitch