"Clown Car is a sharp single-pitch trad route just right of Power Lust at Lover's Leap. It offers a unique combination of face climbing and gear-laden crack pitches that provide a balanced, accessible challenge in an iconic granite playground."
Clown Car offers a distinct twist on the classic Lover's Leap experience, tucked just right of Power Lust on the Main Wall. This route carves a modest but engaging 80-foot line, where dark streaks of lichen cloak a subtle crack that only reveals itself after leaving the main ledge. The initial approach feels more like an exploration of texture—stepping past three bolts from Power Lust before pivoting right into a crack that snakes alongside Blue Cab’s prow, then curves back left towards Power Lust’s anchor. The climbing style mirrors Blue Cab’s balanced mix of face moves on sturdy dikes accompanied by gear placements within a crack, appealing to climbers looking for technical interest rather than sheer vertical exhaustion.
Protection is straightforward yet thoughtful; a rack up to 2 inches fits the bill, with three bolts along the way and a two-bolt anchor at the summit ensuring secure placements. This route demands precision on smaller holds and patience to negotiate the crack’s subtle twists. It’s an accessible 5.9-minus climb—offering just enough challenge to keep attention focused but avoiding the steep-on-the-brink pressure of harder climbs nearby.
Access to Clown Car is well within reach: the trailhead is easy to locate with Highway 50 as a reference point. Expect a short approach that moves through classic Lover’s Leap terrain—granite slabs polished by years of weather and climber traffic, surrounded by open air and scents of pine that sharpen with elevation. The rock’s texture lends itself well to friction climbing, with occasional pockets and tiled edges that reward deliberate footwork.
Timing your climb benefits from early to mid-morning hours when the western wall catches gentle sunlight without overheating, ideal during spring and early summer. Afternoon shade follows the route’s right trending line, offering welcome relief during hotter months. Comfort on the rock pairs well with light layers and durable climbing shoes designed for precision.
Descent requires a short rappel off the two-bolt anchor, a quick and efficient way to return to the base without retracing moves or uncomfortable downclimbing. Keep an eye on rope management, as a single 70-meter line is unnecessary, making your gear load lighter and approach swifter.
Clown Car stands as a perfect pick for those wanting a concentrated dose of classic Lover’s Leap granite with a twist—a small route that packs just the right punch of adventure and technical climbing. Its proximity to Power Lust and Blue Cab allows climbers to sample multiple styles in one outing, making it a rewarding stop on any Sierra Nevada climbing itinerary.
The climb’s protection depends heavily on proper gear placement in the crack after the initial bolts. Be mindful of potential loose lichen patches early on, and confirm anchor integrity before rappelling. Avoid late afternoon runs in hot season due to limited shade and potential heat exposure.
Clip the first three bolts on Power Lust before moving right into Clown Car’s crack.
Use a rack with cams up to 2 inches for effective protection placements.
Early morning climbs offer ideal rock temperatures with softened sun exposure.
Plan for a quick rappel descent from the two-bolt anchor to save energy.
Standard trad rack to 2 inches required, including cams and nuts. Three bolts protect the initial moves from Power Lust before transitioning into the crack system. Anchor consists of two bolts, suitable for a straightforward rappel. No 70-meter rope needed.
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