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Cloud Nine at Mota Wall: A Rugged Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
arête
face climbing
multi-pitch
sport climbing
limestone
exposed
technical
Length: 320 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Cloud Nine
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cloud Nine challenges climbers with three engaging pitches on Mota Wall’s limestone face. This sport route combines technical climbing on an exposed arête with sustained face climbing, set against El Potrero Chico’s dramatic desert backdrop."

Cloud Nine at Mota Wall: A Rugged Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Cloud Nine offers a compelling sport climbing experience on Mota Wall, set within the dramatic limestone landscape of El Potrero Chico, Nuevo Leon. This three-pitch route spans approximately 320 feet, presenting a challenging progression that invites climbers to engage both body and mind as they ascend. The climb begins with a 5.10b pitch, guiding you up a sheer face toward the base of a sharp arête. Here, the rock demands precise footwork and steady balance, with the arête acting like a keystone, drawing you upward. The second pitch intensifies, rated at 5.11b, where thin face holds push your technical limits as you traverse right of the arête. The rock’s texture here is rough and rewarding, a physical dialogue between hand and stone. The final pitch, rated 5.10d, takes you through distinctive brown corner features, requiring thoughtful movement before veering left toward the anchors. Each segment feels distinctly different, weaving together to form a cohesive and compelling climb that rewards focus and flow.

El Potrero Chico’s iconic walls stand watch over this route, offering stunning views of the arid highlands and jagged peaks that challenge the frequency of prevailing winds. Climbers will find themselves in the heart of a climbing mecca where the sun amplifies the limestone’s warmth while nearby breezes offer fleeting relief. This route’s bold sport bolts assure secure protection, allowing you to concentrate on technique and endurance. Ground access is straightforward, with trails leading to the base marked by sparse desert vegetation and rugged terrain.

For those preparing to tackle Cloud Nine, hydration and sun protection are essential given the exposed nature of the approach and portions of the climb. Lightweight climbing shoes with good edge support will aid in managing the thin face on the second pitch. Timing your climb for the early morning or late afternoon can improve comfort by avoiding peak sun.

El Potrero Chico’s allure extends beyond this route with its reputation for consistent rock quality and a variety of climbs catering to diverse skill sets. Cloud Nine stands out as a demanding but rewarding sport climb that tests your ability to manage sustained difficulty over multiple pitches. It invites climbers to experience the unique character of northern Mexico’s limestone canyons — an adventure that is as mentally engaging as it is physically satisfying.

Climber Safety

While Cloud Nine benefits from dependable bolts, the route’s exposure on the arête and thin face sections demands secure clipping and focused movement. Loose rock is minimal, but climbers should be cautious on the brown corner where holds may be less predictable. The approach trail can be slick with loose gravel; proper footwear and attention are necessary.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length320 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun which intensifies on the exposed upper pitches.

Bring plenty of water; the approach and climb are exposed with minimal shade.

Wear climbing shoes that excel on thin edges to tackle the second pitch efficiently.

Check the weather forecast; sudden winds can make the exposed arête feel colder than expected.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11a
Quality
Consensus:Cloud Nine’s 5.11a rating feels fair with the second pitch presenting the crux through thin face climbing at 5.11b, which bumps the sustained difficulty. The first and third pitches are solid 5.10s but require careful footwork and technique. Compared to other El Potrero Chico sport climbs, it sits on the challenging end of multi-pitch routes, offering a balanced test of endurance and precision.

Gear Requirements

Cloud Nine is fully bolted with reliable anchors at each belay. Standard sport climbing gear is sufficient, including quickdraws and a dynamic rope. No additional trad gear is needed due to solid bolt protection.

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Tags

arête
face climbing
multi-pitch
sport climbing
limestone
exposed
technical