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Clivus Multrum at Outhouse Rock: A Focused Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Twentynine Palms, California United States
trad crack
exposed ridge
desert climbing
single pitch
Joshua Tree
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Clivus Multrum
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clivus Multrum presents a focused trad challenge on the west shoulder of Outhouse Rock within Joshua Tree National Park. This steep crack and exposed ridge route offers technical placements and sweeping desert views that reward careful climbing."

Clivus Multrum at Outhouse Rock: A Focused Trad Climb in Joshua Tree

Rising sharply from the desert floor, Outhouse Rock commands attention with its stark, weathered walls and commanding presence within Joshua Tree National Park. Clivus Multrum, a steep 100-foot single-pitch trad climb, offers a precise encounter with the park’s rugged geology. The route begins with a thin, vertical crack that challenges both hand and finger placements, inviting climbers to settle into technical crack climbing early on. Protection places confidently in this initial section, giving a reassuring anchor into the climb’s commitment. Above this, the terrain eases onto the west shoulder, a more open, exposed ridge that requires careful footwork as the natural line snakes upward toward the summit. The ridge's exposed nature contrasts the crack’s snug hold, reminding climbers that attention remains critical despite the easing angle.

Joshua Tree’s dry desert air and intense sunlight carve textures into every rock face here, where quartz and monzogranite roughen the skin and provide dependable friction. The route’s position on the west face means afternoon shadows gradually cool the rock, offering a welcome reprieve after the day’s sunbeam assault. Climbers stepping onto Clivus Multrum feel both the pulse of challenge in the demanding crack and the expansive quiet that the wider formation commands, a moment to breathe and take in Joshua Tree’s stark, sun-sculpted landscape.

The approach from Hidden Valley Campground is straightforward but demands respect for the desert environment — three-quarters of a mile of flat to gently rolling terrain through creosote bushes and scattered Joshua Trees, often exposed to intense sun with minimal shade. Plan to arrive early for cooler conditions and to avoid midday heat spikes. Footwear with sticky soles complements the varied friction on the rock, while ample water is essential for this desert setting.

Clivus Multrum’s moderate 5.8 R rating indicates solid technical demands with runout sections on the ridge. It’s not a climb for those new to traditional protection or desert climbing, but it rewards steady hands and clear focus with a peaceful summit perch and views that stretch across the valley floor. Expect to place small cams and nuts in the base crack, but be prepared for fewer placements along the ridge where the protection thins. The simplicity of a one-pitch climb here makes it a solid introduction to Joshua Tree’s trad offerings, with a balance of technical climbing and scenic exposure that makes the route memorable for intermediate climbers looking to stretch their skills.

Descending typically involves a careful walk off the east side, so a steady step on loose scree and attention to footing remain crucial on return. Joshua Tree’s quiet desert wilderness sets a contemplative tone to the experience, where each move connects climber to stone and sky, making Clivus Multrum a climb that tests skill while rewarding with clear, open views and a raw sense of place.

Climber Safety

Pay close attention to the exposed ridge section where protection thins; a fall here demands careful management. The desert setting means sun exposure and dehydration are constant risks, so hydration and timing are critical.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to avoid intense desert heat and catch cooler rock surfaces.

Wear sticky-soled shoes to handle both crack jams and smooth ridge friction.

Carry at least two liters of water due to the arid environment and exposed approach.

Plan your descent carefully; the downclimb requires steady footing on loose scree.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R grade reflects a solid technical challenge with a runout character on the ridge section. The crack provides consistent protection early on, but the trail to the summit tests confidence with sparse pro spots. Compared to nearby routes, Clivus Multrum sits as a comfortable yet committing line for intermediate trad climbers ready to engage desert cracks and exposed scrambling.

Gear Requirements

Gear up with a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams for the thin vertical crack. Be prepared for limited protection on the ridge where gear placements become sparse.

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Tags

trad crack
exposed ridge
desert climbing
single pitch
Joshua Tree