"Upper Getaway presents a tucked-away climbing terrace above The Getaway in California’s high desert. With a handful of well-regarded trad routes and a manageable approach, it’s a quiet spot offering a blend of technical chimney climbs and slabby rock under desert skies."
The Upper Getaway offers climbers a quiet retreat just above the more popular routes of The Getaway in California’s high desert. This small terrace area sits on a grassy, gently sloping ledge to the right side of The Getaway, giving visitors a modest but rewarding experience away from the main traffic. The rock here is less traveled, with just a handful of routes that take advantage of the natural chimney and slab features carved into the cliff.
Accessing Upper Getaway requires a bit of finesse – you’ll approach by heading right from The Getaway itself and ascend a short chimney with the help of a fixed rope. The start can feel loose underfoot, so rockfall is a real hazard. Be mindful not to dislodge stones onto climbers below; clear communication and careful movement here are essential for safety.
Though the routes are fewer and not as heavily frequented, they hold their own appeal, especially for climbers looking for something off the beaten path. The classic climb here is Pinhead, rated 5.8 with a solid 3.5 star rating. It offers a balanced challenge, suitable for those comfortable stepping up from beginner routes and seeking a route that blends technical moves with natural lines.
The environment around Upper Getaway has a raw, desert edge — dry brush and open skies frame your ascent, while the terrain’s gentle sloping grass adds a small contrast to the rigid rock face. The weather here tilts towards arid conditions, with long stretches of dry sunny days ideal for climbing most of the year. The prime season centers around the cooler months in spring and fall when the heat is dialed back but the daylight hours are still generous.
Gear-wise, this area demands standard trad rack essentials since the climbing involves chimney work and slab protection. The fixed rope makes the approach more accessible but doesn’t remove the need for solid safety practices when ascending the loose base section. Expect to carry your gear in carefully and be ready to clean and protect anchors as typical here.
Getting to Upper Getaway puts you in the heart of New Jack City’s Box Canyon East, a lesser-known but steadily gaining attention climbing zone in the Barstow area. This locale blends the best of desert elevation with approachable routes. You’ll want to layer your plan with a solid approach from the nearby trails, keeping an eye on rock conditions and pack plenty of water.
The descent from the climbs is straightforward with careful downclimbing or walking off along the grassy terrace, making retreat easier than at steeper, more technical crags. It’s ideal for climbers who want to combine a serene climb with a manageable exit strategy.
Upper Getaway’s charm lies in its understated presence – it’s not the busiest or most imposing wall, but for climbers seeking a quieter spot where skill matters and cautious movement is rewarded, it’s a worthwhile destination. Whether you’re pushing your trad grade at the 5.8 level or simply exploring the Barstow area’s outskirts, Upper Getaway adds a little off-the-radar flavor to your climbing itinerary.
Classic climbs like Pinhead offer a genuine taste of the terrain’s unique features without demanding excessive gear or commitment. For those who prefer areas less affected by crowds and overuse, this terrace invites exploration and respect for the conditions underfoot. Prepare yourself for solid, straightforward climbing with enough character and challenge to make your trip memorable.
Exercise caution approaching the chimney due to loose rock at the base. Avoid knocking down stones to protect climbers below. Use the fixed rope carefully and communicate clearly with your partner throughout the ascent.
Use the fixed rope for the chimney approach but move carefully to avoid rockfall.
Bring a standard trad rack suitable for 5.8 chimney and slab climbs.
Plan your climb during spring or fall for cooler, more stable weather conditions.
Watch for loose rock at the chimney base to protect your partners and climbers below.
Access the climbing area by moving right from The Getaway and ascend a short chimney via a fixed rope. The base can be loose so practice caution to avoid dislodging rocks onto others. Protective gear for chimney and slab climbing is advised.
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