Climbing the Dark Side: A North-Facing Challenge in Kananaskis

Canmore, Alberta
north-facing
shaded
solid rock
lead climbing
sport routes
approach trail
cool temperatures
mid-grade
Length: 80-100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Kananaskis Conservation Area
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Dark Side is a shaded north-facing cliff line in Kananaskis known for firm, darker rock and solid mid-grade lead climbs. Accessible by a short trail from Painted Wall, it offers cooler conditions and several classic 5.11 routes for climbers ready to push themselves in a quieter setting."

Climbing the Dark Side: A North-Facing Challenge in Kananaskis

The Dark Side presents climbers with a rare opportunity to explore a lengthy corridor of darker-hued rock etched into one of Kananaskis’ expansive north-facing cliffs. This stretch is part of the evolving Ostraland sector, a shaded cliff line quickly gaining attention for its solid lead routes and distinctive character. Approaching from the Painted Wall, the access trail gently winds west along the cliff’s base, taking about five to seven minutes. The trail is faint but quickly rewarding, skirting a subtle rise before reaching the anchor bolt marking the base of Black is Back. From here, another short hike leads to the shallow, left-facing corner known for the climb Soaring Raven, among other lines.

At an elevation of roughly 5,327 feet, the Dark Side’s positioning offers cooler temperatures even in summer, lending a constant touch of shade that helps climbers manage exertion under the sun’s gaze. The north-facing aspect means this area is especially desirable in warmer months, though it’s important to note the general climate of Kananaskis — expect cool mornings and variable weather with seasonal precipitation that can affect rock conditions.

While the rock itself asserts an imposing, darker tone, it’s the quality and history of the climbs that draw climbers back. This area includes classic routes like Let There Be Light (5.11b), Mine Meld (5.11b), Only the Strong Survive (5.11b), and Summer Sweet (5.11a). Each route offers a solid challenge without unnecessary embellishments, perfectly suited for climbers ready to test their skills on genuinely established lines. These climbs have earned consistent ratings of 3.0 stars, signaling dependable quality and enjoyable pitch sequences.

Finding your footing here requires steady attention; the trail is less a well-worn path and more a subtle trace following the cliff’s base. This adds an air of quiet adventure to the approach, with the anticipation building as you near the first anchor bolt. The rock’s texture is firm, the face shaded, lending both grip and coolness during leads, but safety remains paramount. Bring your full rack and be ready for solid lead climbing as fixed gear is limited. While the climb grades are approachable to those comfortable in the 5.11 range, the shaded, sometimes damp conditions mean climbers should come prepared for varied challenges.

Dark Side’s place within the broader Kananaskis region means you’re surrounded by stunning mountainous wilderness, accessible yet untouched enough to retain a pristine outdoor feel. Proximity to Moose Mountain offers options for additional climbs and exploration, making it a fitting destination for a day or multi-day outing. The longer approach from Painted Wall provides an excellent warm-up and transition into this quieter, less trafficked sector.

Seasonally, summer through early fall offers the best window here. Avoid wetter months when moisture can cling to the shaded rock, increasing slip risk. Early starts capitalize on cooler morning air and maximize daylight for multiple leads.

Descent is straightforward with careful downclimbing or walking the base trail back to the Painted Wall area. Always account for loose gravel on footing near the cliff’s edge. Wear sturdy shoes for the uneven approach and carry enough water, as shade can mask dehydration risks when the climate is dry but cool.

This area is a perfect balance of discovery and tested adventure — the Dark Side invites climbers to step beyond the popular routes and connect with Kananaskis in a way few others sectors can offer. Whether you’re sharpening your lead tactics or craving a solid session on classic routes bathed in cool shade, Dark Side delivers a memorable outdoor experience with all the practical details you need for a safe and rewarding day.

Climber Safety

The approach trail is faint and can be rocky, so watch your footing especially near the cliff base. The shaded aspect keeps rock cool but can hold moisture after rain, increasing slip hazards. Always double-check anchors before leading.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80-100 feet

Local Tips

Approach via Painted Wall, following a faint trail west along the cliff base for 5-7 minutes.

Locate the bolt anchor for Black is Back shortly after a minor trail bump.

Arrive early in the day for cooler temps at this north-facing cliff.

Avoid wet or rainy weather as the shaded rock can stay damp and slippery.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes here generally fall in the solid 5.11a to 5.11b range, offering reliable grades without significant sandbagging. The climbs provide consistent sport leads that challenge technical skills but remain fair compared to similar Kananaskis sectors.

Gear Requirements

Limited fixed anchors; bring a full sport rack and be prepared for traditional protection where necessary. The approach is short but on a faint trail along the cliff base.

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Tags

north-facing
shaded
solid rock
lead climbing
sport routes
approach trail
cool temperatures
mid-grade