"A textured single-pitch trad climb on Boulder’s Sunset Wall that blends technical finger cracks with a reach-dependent crux. Perfect for those ready to sharpen their crack skills on solid Flatirons rock."
Climbing Non-Sunse offers an authentic slice of traditional climbing on Boulder’s iconic Sunset Wall, situated in the South Flatirons. This route begins with a measured pace, easing you into the rhythm before gathering momentum toward its distinctive crux. The climb leans on its rewarding finger cracks and a left-facing dihedral that waits to be tested by those ready to face its nuanced challenges. Positioned on the right side of the corner, clean cracks invite you upward, carving a path to the jagged arete. Tackling the arete leads to a small ledge, where the climb shifts gears into a demanding sequence of finger locks and stemming beneath a compact roof—a 5.8 move that’s highly dependent on reach and technique. For climbers of average height, this crux hits just right, but shorter climbers may find the difficulty ratcheted higher, demanding precise footwork and creative body positioning.
Protection needs are straightforward—a light rack of cams and stoppers will suffice, and the secure-to-place gear spots offer confidence as you move through the varied rock features. The anchor at the summit is a dependable large tree, serving both as a reassuring endpoint and a natural tie-in for the descent. Rappelling involves moving downhill along the ledge to a green sling with a locking biner attached to another large tree, from which a controlled 65-foot rappel returns you safely to the ground.
The setting itself is classic Flatirons: rugged rock faces etched with cracks, peppered with patches of lichen and sun-warmed quartz. The approach spotlights the wild character of Boulder’s climbing heritage—raw, accessible, and enveloped by views of the foothills and cityscape. Best climbed on clear, dry days, this route rewards those prepared with solid footwear and a calm mindset for negotiating a move or two that push your limits. Whether you’re looking to refine your crack climbing or savor a single-pitch trad climb that balances mental focus and physical finesse, Climbing Non-Sunse invites you in with its honest character and natural challenges.
Be vigilant when placing gear near the roof and stemming sections, as these moves can be strenuous and reach-dependent. Rappel anchors use natural trees—inspect webbing and hardware carefully before committing to the descent. Approach and climb during dry conditions to avoid slippery rock patches.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on sun-exposed rock.
Bring sticky shoes for technical finger cracks and stemming moves.
Shorter climbers should anticipate a tougher crux—focus on precise footwork.
Check sling condition on rappel trees before committing to descent.
A standard light rack of cams and stoppers covers the protection needs with confident placements throughout. The anchor is a large tree at the top, and rappelling is done from a green sling with a locking biner on another large tree, ensuring a safe and straightforward descent.
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