"Climber in the Buff offers a crisp 50-foot trad climb on Diamond Head, combining approachable crack climbing with solid pro and an exposed, hanging dihedral. Perfect for Boulder climbers sharpening their trad skills in Eldorado's classic granite."
Climber in the Buff presents a sharp, focused introduction to trad climbing at Eldorado Canyon's famed Diamond Head area. This single-pitch route rises about 50 feet up a hanging, left-facing dihedral that challenges climbers with a direct, clean line offering solid pro placements. The rock here demands attention—granite that invites your hands and feet to find purchase while testing your technique on mostly juggy holds with occasional tighter moves. The climb’s exposure is immediate but manageable, creating a sense of confident adventure without overwhelming risk.
The approach to this route is straightforward, located just right of the more trafficked Diamond in the Rough climb—giving it a quieter, slightly more exploratory vibe. The line's accidental first ascent roots add a bit of rogue charm to the pitch, reminding climbers that discovery can come even in well-trodden places. Upon topping out, the belayer can set on solid gear anchors, securing a comfortable stance above the dihedral. Descending calls for a 20-foot downclimb on the backside, before a quick scramble around the left side leads back to easy ground.
Planning your effort here means bringing standard trad rack gear with an emphasis on solid nuts and cams, as the protection lies fully in removable gear. The rock quality is generally trustworthy but does demand careful placements to maintain a secure line. Climbers should approach this route prepared with sturdy footwear tailored for technical edging and smearing, as the granite tests balance as much as hand strength. Early morning or late afternoon climbs work best to avoid the harsh midday sun, as the wall faces east-southeast, offering cool shade during spring and fall seasons.
Though short, Climber in the Buff teaches patience in reading rock features and finding rhythm in crack and face moves combined. It’s an accessible 5.9 that carries a subtle challenge on technical feet and gear placements that reward a mindful climb. For Boulder-area climbers looking to stretch their trad skills with a route that merges straightforward climbing with an inviting sense of adventure, this pitch stands out as a rewarding choice.
The route requires confident downclimbing skills for the 20-foot descent, which may be tricky for newer climbers. Gear placements demand focus to avoid any loose placements; check pro carefully before committing.
Start early to avoid midday sun on the east-southeast facing wall.
Wear shoes with solid edging ability for technical footwork on granite.
Double check gear placements; the rock is sound but protection requires attention.
Plan for a 20-foot downclimb from the top out; bring a partner for a smooth descent.
Removable protection only; standard trad rack with nuts and cams recommended to protect the left-facing dihedral. No fixed gear present.
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