"Climb to Safety scales a compact corner and roof on North Narrows Slabs, testing trad skills with well-protected, technical moves. Perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their crack technique and handle a roof crux within a manageable single pitch."
Climb to Safety offers an engaging taste of traditional climbing nestled within the rugged terrain of North Narrows Slabs, just beyond the vibrant town of Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch route challenges climbers to negotiate a compact, left-arching corner before confronting a striking overhanging roof that demands a confident 5.9 move to overcome. The climb begins with a 30-foot approach up a modest corner rated 5.7, where the rock’s texture invites precise footwork against a backdrop of open sky. As you reach the bolt anchored just beyond the roof, anticipation builds for the crux—this section requires careful body positioning and deliberate movement, a moment where strength meets focus.
Beyond the roof, the route continues along a thin seam, easing slightly to 5.8, where finger-sized gear placements and small cams become crucial. This final stretch rewards climbers with a sense of accomplishment as the belay station comes into view. Protection on this route is thoughtfully arranged with two bolts complemented by a conventional rack topped at a #2 Camalot, making it approachable yet requiring good gear judgment. A two-bolt rappel anchor with rings at the top ensures a safe descent.
Surrounded by soaring slabs and a canyon that hums with the crisp mountain air, Climb to Safety ties practical challenge with scenic exposure. The rock surface has a solid feel, offering just enough friction for delicate footwork, while the route’s moderate vertical gain of 80 feet keeps it within reach for those honing their trad skills. This climb suits climbers ready to test their balance and technical edge without committing to a multi-pitch adventure.
Planning your trip here means preparing for variable conditions—rock can warm quickly in the sun, so early morning ascents are recommended for the best grip and comfortable temperatures. Footwear with sticky rubber and precise edging ability will support the thin placements and technical moves typical of this climb. Hydration is key; the approach cuts through open terrain where shade is sparse, so carry enough water for a midday break in Lyons or nearby.
North Narrows Slabs belongs to the St. Vrain Canyons area, renowned for its clean lines and approachable traditional routes. The proximity to Lyons offers convenient access to local amenities and trailheads, making it a practical choice for a half-day outing or a testing ground before tackling longer, more committing climbs nearby.
For climbers flirting with the upper end of 5.8 and solid 5.9 moves, Climb to Safety offers a compact, rewarding line that blends adventure with manageable exposure. Whether sharpening crack placements or tuning roof techniques, this route invites you to engage fully with the demands of traditional climbing on clean, Colorado granite.
Be cautious on the roof section where protection can be tricky; fall potential increases if gear is poorly placed. The rappel anchor is solid but double-check sling condition before lowering.
Start early to avoid warm rock and secure firm friction on the slab.
Bring a standard single rack up to #2 Camalot with small cams for the upper seam.
Wear shoes with precise edging ability to handle the thin seams and roof section.
Hydrate before and after climbing—the approach has minimal shade and can be dry.
Standard trad rack to #2 Camalot recommended, supplemented by thin and finger-sized gear for the seam above the roof. Two bolts protect key crux moves, with a bolted rappel anchor set up for a clean descent.
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