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Clearance Rack: A Balanced Trad and Sport Climb on Grit Wall

Grand Junction, Colorado United States
face climb
mixed protection
medium cams
single pitch
exposed
pocketed rock
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Clearance Rack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clearance Rack blends trad and sport climbing over a crisp 55-foot pitch on Grit Wall’s Nine Mile Hill. With approachable moves and mixed protection, it’s ideal for climbers seeking a solid 5.8 challenge near Grand Junction’s rugged canyon landscape."

Clearance Rack: A Balanced Trad and Sport Climb on Grit Wall

Clearance Rack offers a straightforward yet engaging introduction to the classic blend of trad and sport climbing that defines Grit Wall's Nine Mile Hill. Located in Unaweep Canyon near Grand Junction, Colorado, this single-pitch route extends 55 feet, inviting climbers to challenge themselves on moderate terrain with a mix of natural and fixed protection. The climb begins beneath a prominent juniper tree, where a confident step onto rough rock leads to a series of ledges gradually angling right, weaving around the remains of a dead tree. Here, the rock changes character—small lips and face holds encourage precise footwork and balance, rewarding patience with steady upward movement.

Natural gear placements are available early on, making it a smart choice for climbers who appreciate the security of traditional protection while relying on two well-positioned bolts for the upper section. The pitch gives a palpable sense of progression, from the grounded approach along easy ledges to the more technical, face-oriented top portion that culminates at a secure anchor stand. This climb fits well within the 5.8 grading scale, featuring manageable moves that test skills without overwhelming. Its brief length is perfect for a focused session or as a primer before tackling longer routes nearby.

Beyond the technical details, Clearance Rack's setting offers a subtle sensory experience. The juniper tree at the base punctuates the route with rustic character, while the exposed rock feels warm and textured underfoot. Wind whispers through the canyon, occasionally carrying the scent of piñon pine and dry earth, grounding the climb firmly in Colorado’s sun-baked landscape. Climbers will find the rock solid yet varied, mapping out a route that blends natural edges with pockets and cracks.

Practically speaking, climbers should prepare for moderate sun exposure—approach early in the day to avoid the heat that settles on the canyon walls by mid-afternoon. Footwear with sticky rubber will serve well on the slabby face climbs, while a standard rack emphasizing medium to large cams will handle the initial trad placements comfortably. Hydration is essential, particularly during warmer months, and a crash pad or helmet is advisable given occasional loose rock along the approach trail.

This route occupies a quieter corner of the Grand Junction area’s climbing scene, offering solitude without sacrificing accessibility. The short but satisfying sequence makes Clearance Rack a great option for beginners honing trad skills or for experienced climbers seeking a no-nonsense route with straightforward protection and a solid rock face. When the day winds down, the canyon’s quietude invites reflection on the blend of nature’s raw edges and human perseverance etched into the stone.

Planning your trip here means embracing both the physical craft of climbing and the grounding presence of the surrounding wilderness—where every hold and ledge becomes a step deeper into the experience. Clearance Rack delivers a clear challenge wrapped in approachable terrain, a rewarding entry point into Colorado’s diverse climbing identity.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the approach and near the dead tree; while placements are fair, the initial ledges can have unstable debris. A helmet and careful foot placement will minimize risk. Avoid climbing when wet, as the rock becomes slick, increasing fall potential.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Begin early to beat the afternoon heat; the canyon absorbs and holds sun by midday.

Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for better grip on the small lips and face holds.

Stay alert for loose rock near the base and along the approach; a helmet is recommended.

Hydrate thoroughly before and after climbing; shade is limited on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated a straightforward 5.8, Clearance Rack sits comfortably within the moderate spectrum. The moves are mainly balance-driven with some technical face climbing near the bolts. The grade feels accurate without feeling soft—climbers can expect a consistent challenge, especially if unfamiliar with mixed trad and sport sequences. Compared to other local routes, it’s a solid starter that doesn’t underwhelm but remains accessible.

Gear Requirements

Carry a rack with one to two medium or large cams to protect the lower trad section reliably, supplemented by two fixed bolts securing the anchor at the top. Ensure your gear fits tightly, as placements demand precise positioning.

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Tags

face climb
mixed protection
medium cams
single pitch
exposed
pocketed rock