HomeClimbingClean Sweep

Clean Sweep at Foothill Crag: A Bold 5.9 R Trad Challenge

Ojai, California United States
runout
slab
trad
trad protection
single pitch
Ojai climbing
sandy slab
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Clean Sweep
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Clean Sweep presents a focused 80-foot climb that tests balance and boldness on mostly sandy slab, with a runout section demanding precise footwork and smart protection. Ideal for climbers looking to step into runout trad with a route that challenges the mental game without overwhelming technical moves."

Clean Sweep at Foothill Crag: A Bold 5.9 R Trad Challenge

Clean Sweep cuts a striking line along the right flank of the crack dominating the left side of Foothill Crag, delivering a blend of slab climbing and well-placed bolts that demand both focus and respect. Starting with a clean slabbed pitch, the climb rewards precise footwork on sandy rock that tests balance over pure strength. The route’s character shifts as you ascend into a runout section where protection thins out and the rock gathers dirt, calling for heightened awareness and quiet confidence.

This single-pitch route stretches 80 feet, mostly bolted, but interspersed with sections where a few smart cam placements might save a long fall. The rating of 5.9 R underscores the commitment—while not technically overwhelming, a slip near the unprotected zone above the bolts could lead to a significant fall. This makes Clean Sweep a fine test for climbers stepping into the world of runouts, blending the thrill of traditional protection decisions with the security offered by fixed hardware.

Foothill Crag itself rests just off Highway 33 near Ojai, in California’s Central Coast, where the climate is often forgiving and the rock sun-warmed. The approach is straightforward, delivering a quick path through oak-dotted slopes and chaparral that prepares the mind and body for the climb’s challenges. Expect the rock’s texture to feel mostly clean at the start, with some grit and deposits creeping into the upper runout, adding an element of unpredictability on delicate moves.

Protection consists of three bolts at the bottom, necessity-born choices in the runout stretch where natural gear, mostly cams, can be slotted for peace of mind. Two bolts and solid anchors finish the line, though these anchors require rappelling to access from above. For top-roping, a reliable tree paired with a robust bush offers an alternative belay setup, but plan to have about 20 feet of extra rope for safe extension.

The route’s modest star rating of 1.8 reflects its rough edges and sandy texture, but for climbers craving a taste of bold slab climbing without committing to long multi-pitch endeavors, Clean Sweep delivers an intense, concentrated experience. Be prepared for the mental game the runout section demands, and enjoy the striking isolation of this classic seaside crag with quick parking and easy access.

Cleaning shoes and taping fingers can be wise choices here, as the sandy slab can test friction in unexpected ways. Morning ascents are best to avoid the afternoon heat that bakes the rock and makes the runout section feel even more precarious. Keep hydration handy and approach with a clear head—Clean Sweep doesn’t forgive lapses in attention.

Whether you’re honing your trad skills or stepping up to intimidations in protection gaps, the route offers a practical outing spiked with just enough edge for reckoning—an accessible yet challenging gateway into the traditional climbing style that central California harbors in its sunny folds.

Climber Safety

The runout section above the initial bolts features poor natural protection and dirtier rock, so a fall here can be dangerous. Climbers must remain vigilant and place caution over speed. The anchors require rappelling; downclimbing off the top is not recommended.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Stick to clean climbing shoes to handle the sandy slab effectively.

Morning climbs are best to avoid sun-baked rock in the afternoon.

Carry small cams for optional protection in the runout section.

Be prepared for anchors that require rappelling to access from the top.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating indicates a technically moderate climb with runout consequences. The slab climbing itself isn’t overly difficult, but the mental strain comes from the sparse protection in places, which elevates the seriousness. Compared to nearby routes with more bolts or easier terrain, Clean Sweep’s grade feels stiff due to the risk factor rather than pure technical moves.

Gear Requirements

Three bolts secure the bottom section before a runout stretch that can be protected with small cams, finishing with two bolts and anchors. Anchors are inaccessible from above without rappelling; top-rope setups require a strong tree and a large bush with about 20 feet rope extension.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Clean Sweep and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

runout
slab
trad
trad protection
single pitch
Ojai climbing
sandy slab