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Claude's Crack - The Smoke Bluffs Trad Climb

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
crack climbing
trad
single pitch
granite
squamish
runestone wall
Length: 49 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Claude's Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Claude's Crack offers a focused trad climb on Runestone Wall's granite, demanding precise crack technique over 49 feet. This clean line, free of bolts, rewards climbers with gritty friction and a subtle crux as the crack veers left near the top."

Claude's Crack - The Smoke Bluffs Trad Climb

Claude's Crack offers climbers a focused yet satisfying foray into technical crack climbing just to the right of the familiar Sigurd route, tucked within the rugged expanse of Runestone Wall. This single-pitch trad climb demands attention to hand jams and finesse on narrow edges, rewarding those who engage with its subtle challenges. The crack itself threads a narrow, twisting path that veers left near the top, merging briefly with Sigurd’s line, providing an interesting variation to the more straightforward climbs nearby.

Approaching the climb, adventurers will find the Smoke Bluffs climbing area alive with the hush of old-growth Douglas firs and the crisp, fresh scent of cedar. The rock’s coarse granite texture offers solid friction, but one must stay alert to the occasional flake. At 49 feet, the climb is a manageable length, suitable for those looking to sharpen their crack technique or as a confident introduction to the vertical playground of Squamish.

Preparation focuses on traditional protection: runners that fit from small to 2-inch sizes function well here. Despite older guidebooks hinting at the presence of a bolt, thorough inspection reveals none, underscoring the importance of solid gear placement skills. This clean, bolt-free route enhances its authenticity – requiring climbers to read the crack, feel the rock, and trust their rack.

Runestone Wall rises prominently in the Smoke Bluffs sector, itself a renowned climbing destination boasting multiple routes, moderate approaches, and excellent rock quality. The location, just outside the town of Squamish in British Columbia, sets the stage for broad views of Howe Sound and an atmosphere energized by climbers sharing tales and chalk-stained hands.

Timing your climb during spring through early fall maximizes comfort and safety; the west-facing wall catches sunlight but invites cooler shade in the afternoon, balancing warmth and respite. The descent is straightforward: a short walk off the top leads safely back to the base, avoiding technical rappels or exposed downclimbs.

Whether you're stepping up after a day of multipitch adventure or seeking a concentrated exercise in crack technique, Claude's Crack provides a quality experience grounded in Squamish’s legendary climbing fabric. Bring your best traditional rack, expect gritty granite texture under your fingers, and embrace the measured pace that this compact classic demands. Careful preparation and respect for the route's natural state will ensure a memorable climb in one of Canada’s outdoor climbing highlights.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose flakes just before the top of the route and test all holds carefully. The absence of bolts means rely fully on your traditional gear placements, so prioritize good pro and double-check placements before proceeding.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length49 feet

Local Tips

Trust your placements—this route has no bolts, so solid pro is key.

Approach via the well-marked trails leading to Runestone Wall; expect about 15 minutes on moderate terrain.

Late spring to early fall offers the best combination of warmth and stable conditions.

Stay aware of loose flakes near the top section of the crack and test holds carefully.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:The 5.6 rating feels true with a delicate touch required on the crack, especially where it shifts left near the top. It avoids being soft by demanding precise hand jams and footwork without any overpowering moves. Compared to nearby Sigurd, Claude’s Crack is slightly more technical but less sustained, making it an accessible yet engaging step up in crack climbing skills.

Gear Requirements

Pro ranging from small sizes up to 2-inch cams is essential here. Despite some outdated reports of a bolt, the route remains fully traditional with no fixed hardware visible or recommended.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad
single pitch
granite
squamish
runestone wall