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Classic Finger Crack at Second Buttress

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
single pitch
boulder canyon
trad gear
technical jams
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Classic Finger Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Classic Finger Crack delivers a focused trad climb up a sharply etched finger crack on Boulder Canyon’s Second Buttress. Ideal for those honing crack climbing skills, this single pitch blends measured protection with a spirited ascent under Colorado's towering front range."

Classic Finger Crack at Second Buttress

Classic Finger Crack on the Second Buttress offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging traditional challenge in the heart of Boulder Canyon. This single-pitch route ascends a sharply defined finger crack that carves its way up the buttress’s main face, demanding steady hands and precise footwork. Starting from the water pipe scramble on class 4 terrain, the approach itself is a brief but focused venture, setting the tone for the climb ahead. You’ll find yourself rising steadily, moving slightly right after the initial scramble before committing to the crack that guides you upward.

The crack’s dimensions favor fingers and small hands, making protection placement critical but manageable—expect an array of stoppers and small cams to secure your anchors. The rock feels solid and textured, offering reliable jams and rests. Once at the top of the gully, a good belay stance awaits, allowing a moment to appreciate the open bowl of the canyon and the surrounding Colorado peaks. The exposure here is moderate, with no wild drops, but the verticality provides a pleasing sense of altitude without feeling intimidating.

This route’s approachable 5.9 rating represents a classic grade that tests technique more than brute strength. The moves flow logically, with no sudden cruxes, but the narrow crack demands attention to finger jams and body positioning. Climbers coming from the more sandbagged Boulder climbing scene may find the grade well-tuned, rewarding patience and careful listening to your gear placements.

Second Buttress itself sits within the legendary Boulder Canyon, a climbing area known for its blend of granite faces and accessible trad lines. The location offers not just climbing but a chance to soak in sweeping views of alder-lined creek beds, pine-scented air, and the endless ridgelines that frame the Front Range. This climb suits those looking to sharpen finger crack skills while experiencing rock that feels alive—held in place by the steady pulse of mountain currents and the occasional call of foothill wildlife.

For gear, bring a selection of small cams and stoppers tailored to finger sizes, as these will provide the critical protection needed for a confident ascent. Footwear with a precise fit is essential to maintain control on the slab sections and tricky jams. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon can spare you the intense midday sun, as the route’s aspect rewards cooler hours with pleasant shade and softer rock temperature.

The approach is straightforward but does require attention to footing on loose rock sections during the scramble. Plan for a quick descent either by walking off the top gully or rappelling as necessary, depending on your skill and comfort level. This climb’s accessible location and moderate protection make it a prime choice for trad climbers seeking a focused, memorable outing in Boulder’s classic climbing landscape.

Climber Safety

Beware of loose rock during the class 4 scramble start; don’t rush the approach. Keep gear placements tight and double-check your top belay anchors as the gully offers limited ledge space.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat as the route’s sun exposure increases midday.

Wear snug climbing shoes to maximize control on thin slab sections and finger jams.

Bring a rack focused on small cams and nuts; medium to large cams are generally unnecessary.

Scout the top belay spot before the climb to locate solid anchors and plan your descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, this climb offers a classic Boulder finger crack experience that feels true to its grade. Many find the route straightforward with no surprise cruxes, though technical finger jams can elevate the effort for less experienced crack climbers. Compared to other routes in Boulder Canyon, it sits comfortably in the moderate spectrum—reliable but engaging.

Gear Requirements

Small cams and stoppers fit the finger crack well; precise footwork is essential due to slabby sections on the approach and climb.

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Tags

finger crack
single pitch
boulder canyon
trad gear
technical jams