"Clandestine Affair is a single-pitch trad climb left of The Yorkshire Gripper, blending secure finger and hand jams with a committing left traverse crux. Set in the iconic Smoke Bluffs of Squamish, this crack line invites climbers seeking a well-protected, moderately challenging granite experience."
Clandestine Affair offers a compelling challenge on the left-hand crack beside The Yorkshire Gripper, tucked within the dynamic expanse of The Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, British Columbia. This single-pitch trad route stretches roughly 80 feet, guiding climbers through a sequence of textured finger locks and sustained hand jams that reward those prepared for both finesse and commitment. The rock around the crack is characteristically top-notch, with solid protection opportunities, except for a tricky traverse section that demands confidence and precise footwork.
You approach the climb from Penny Lane, moving through well-traveled forest trails before arriving at the base of this lesser-known line. The route’s life begins with a series of secure finger holds, quickly building to the groove of hand jams that carry you upward. The defining moment arrives at an obvious traverse to the left—this crossing serves as the route’s crux. Many climbers pause here, weighing the right sequence and placements, but with a solid piece set in the crack, this section becomes a manageable move rather than a deterrent.
For those seeking to push themselves further, alternative variations amp up the difficulty. Starting from the ground and threading directly to the crack by passing under a fragile roof introduces additional complexity. Weather conditions influence the challenge here: moist rock at the roof accentuates its precarious nature, justifying its recommended 10d rating. Another bold option detours straight up the face instead of traversing, introducing an 11c testpiece that demands technical prowess and boldness.
The outdoor setting is open and exposed to the elements, with dappled sunshine filtering through surrounding pines and firs that frame the area. Being part of The Smoke Bluffs—a climbing area known for its dense granite slabs and cracks—this route benefits from the moderate Canadian coastal climate, best enjoyed in late spring through early fall when conditions dry out and grip sharpens.
Gear-wise, a standard trad rack extending to a 3-inch cam is all that’s needed. Protection on the traverse can challenge placements, so placing carefully before committing to the crossing is key. The remainder of the crack rewards consistent, well-spaced pro that secures the ascent and keeps fall potential manageable.
The approach to Clandestine Affair is straightforward but requires attention. Follow marked trails from Penny Lane, crossing well-tread paths that pass through mixed forest and rocky clearings. The walk-in averages 15 to 20 minutes on solid footing with minor elevation gain. The granite walls rise sharply above, drawing climbers’ eyes to the line’s thin crack and inviting an ascent filled with both muscle and mind.
When planning your climb, arrive early to avoid the midday sun on the face, which faces slightly west and picks up warmth through the afternoon. Layered clothing works best as conditions can fluctuate, especially on cool mornings or when the rock retains moisture from coastal fog.
Descending from the top of the pitch involves careful downclimbing or a single rope rappel back to the base. The anchors are well-established, though a solid rappel setup is essential given the exposure and granite structure. Always double-check knots and gear before committing to the descent.
Clandestine Affair is a route that combines steady technical climbing with a pinch of boldness. It’s accessible for intermediate trad climbers looking to refine crack climbing skills while offering a route steeped in subtle challenges. With a moderate star rating from the community, it invites repeat visits and experimentation with variations, all within the beautiful ruggedness of British Columbia’s smoke-blusted granite playground.
While protection is generally solid, the traverse near the base requires a secure piece before moving out; avoid falling there as the holds can be pumpy and exposure increases risk. The crumble roof on the alternate start demands caution, particularly in damp conditions when rock integrity softens.
Approach from Penny Lane via well-marked trails; expect about 15-20 minutes hike with minor elevation gain.
Scout the traverse before committing; placing pro early reduces risk on the crux move.
Avoid climbing this route immediately after rain; the roof at the start can seep, increasing difficulty.
Plan your climb for mornings or late afternoons to avoid the afternoon sun that heats the western-facing wall.
Protection is excellent throughout the climb except for the traverse, which demands careful placement. A standard trad rack up to a 3-inch cam covers the protection needs. Consider carrying extra small cams for finger to hand-sized placements on the traverse and initial crack section.
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